TOPIC:

You could do what I did, this way you can watch the floats rise and shut off fuel.

That's how I do it.  

Wookie58 wrote:

Buzz Nichols wrote:

Really? All I've found there is a fitting for the VM 29 carbs that goes into the hole for accessing the main jet. 

Regardless, I'm not trying to hijack this thread. Carry on.

The clear plastic hose cut to a pencil point worked good. It may drip a little, just grab a small tupper ware bowl from the wife's cupboard to catch it.
Besides you can save the $36 to use on safety chrome!!
 

When I was replacing the points and checking the spark advance for free play. I noticed this pin was broken (before or by ham fist me , Doesn't matter).
I thought it was more for reference, to line up the spark advance than anything.
The ole girl ran fair for the 2 trips around the block( carbs needed help as well).
I figured the center bolt would hold everything in place.
A dowel pin should be ok to replace it!!? Or does it need to be a harder steel?
Any idea how deep the pin goes, before I go nuts with the drill!!  And would you know what size pin it might be? Diameter.
Also is there a seal behind the cir-clip? I can't see one on the parts finder.
I have a new seal for between the spark advance and points.

Treetall wrote:

When I was replacing the points and checking the spark advance for free play. I noticed this pin was broken (before or by ham fist me , Doesn't matter).
I thought it was more for reference, to line up the spark advance than anything.
The ole girl ran fair for the 2 trips around the block( carbs needed help as well).
I figured the center bolt would hold everything in place.
A dowel pin should be ok to replace it!!? Or does it need to be a harder steel?
Any idea how deep the pin goes, before I go nuts with the drill!!  And would you know what size pin it might be? Diameter.
Also is there a seal behind the cir-clip? I can't see one on the parts finder.
I have a new seal for between the spark advance and points.

 

Its very common to see those pins sheared off. The pin is 4 mm dia x 8mm lg, so the hole is 4mm deep.

You can use a split pin as they are easier to drill out. There is no seal behind the clip, the oil seal is in the outer points housing.
 

I removed one using a 3mm tap and machine screw, drilled the pin and taped it. Threaded in the screw and pulled it out by the head of the screw. The pin was solid doll. 

Thanks Guys !

Looking at the pic you posted it seems that the pin is hollow so its probably a roll/split pin. Like Mikaw said easy to take out with a small tap.

One of the 1000 engines I rebuilt had the same issue, it picked out pretty easy once I put some heat to it.

Injected wrote:

Looking at the pic you posted it seems that the pin is hollow so its probably a roll/split pin. Like Mikaw said easy to take out with a small tap.

One of the 1000 engines I rebuilt had the same issue, it picked out pretty easy once I put some heat to it.

I noticed it looked hollow as well.  That's why I was wondering if it should be a little heavier steel.
They don't run very well or at all, when the timing advance turns.
 

Original pins were solid. This is what they are offering from Kawasaki :



I don't think it makes a difference.
 

Injected wrote:

Original pins were solid. This is what they are offering from Kawasaki :

I don't think it makes a difference.

 

Agreed, I would only expect a "roll pin" to break if the motor was run with the advancer bolt loose. They are used in higher load applications than this. I am also assuming the original was pretty soft if it can be drilled in place with a 3mm drill whereas the roll pins are heat treated to gain their "spring" feature

I broke one turning the engine over with a wrench while setting timing.  Ever since I use my kick start to turn the engine over.