TOPIC:

sf4t7 wrote:

Mikaw - I'm almost ready to bench sync and set float levels and I've been planning how to make a fixture.  What I've pictured in my head (an ability useful as a draftsman especially before CAD when we did it by hand on a large drafting board) is similar but I like yours better.  Do you have holes for the carb throats to set the sync from the cylinder head side ?
Thanks for the ideas.

Thanks. It was a quick slap together stand. No holes but that’s a great idea. I screwed used carb holders to the horizontal. I only have one screw in each vertical to the horizontal till I plumb it based on the surface it’s sitting on, then run in a second screw on one end. Then I level it left to right. Typically after float are set I’ll just set them on the bench and do the initial sync. 

Yeah -  I had set aside 2 of my old carb holders to attach the carbs.

Is there an initial measurement for the float?  Or is it trial and error!
I know a small adjustment goes a long way!
BTW The Nessism clear hose method works pretty good. I made a bit of a point as mentioned, and scraped the sides a bit with a utility knife to down size it a touch.

I start with eyeing the float and the bracket. Making sure all brackets come off the float at a sharp 90 deg.Then I bend the tang flat flush with the bracket. Hang all the floats, with seat and needle, and compare all to each other to make sure they all hang down the same amount. It easy to hold a straight edge across the bottom of the floats to compare. Bend individual floats as necessary. Then the fun begins. Carbs are fed as pairs. 1&2, 3&4. With bowls 1&2 held in place with two screws each, clear tube in #1 drain boss, start the fuel flow and observe. Like I said it’s not hard, time consuming so plan on a couple hours. To adjust the tab, I remove the float, set the bracket on an 8mm socket. The body of the bracket arms will rest on the OD of the socket and the tang will be in the center open area of the socket. This will allow you to press down on the tang to bend without bending the arms of the bracket. Rehang the float and rinse and repeat till the fuel in the tube is 2-4mm below the carb body. Make sure you are eyeballing the actual fuel level and not the meniscus level.

 

It IS time consuming.
Work in a well ventilated area.

 

H.

Mikaw wrote:

I start with eyeing the float and the bracket. Making sure all brackets come off the float at a sharp 90 deg.Then I bend the tang flat flush with the bracket. Hang all the floats, with seat and needle, and compare all to each other to make sure they all hang down the same amount. It easy to hold a straight edge across the bottom of the floats to compare. Bend individual floats as necessary. Then the fun begins. Carbs are fed as pairs. 1&2, 3&4. With bowls 1&2 held in place with two screws each, clear tube in #1 drain boss, start the fuel flow and observe. Like I said it’s not hard, time consuming so plan on a couple hours. To adjust the tab, I remove the float, set the bracket on an 8mm socket. The body of the bracket arms will rest on the OD of the socket and the tang will be in the center open area of the socket. This will allow you to press down on the tang to bend without bending the arms of the bracket. Rehang the float and rinse and repeat till the fuel in the tube is 2-4mm below the carb body. Make sure you are eyeballing the actual fuel level and not the meniscus level.

Thanks Mikaw,  very nice explanation.
I was a little leery about bending the float to get them all level.  I was afraid of ending up with a float in one hand and a bracket in the other. But they're fairly forgiving.
I only had one float that needed adjusting. But I'll have to go back and check my work, because she wouldn't fire up after words.
Could be spark or I goofed some where.  The fun continues!!
If I did do everything right. Then the carbs were way out.

 

While this subject is on the table, does anybody sell a clear hose adaptor to fit the drain plugs on the Mikuni VM26's? If not, is there a  machinist in the house who would like to make a few?

Nessism mentioned and this member confirmed you can cut the tub in a pencil tip shape and screw the tube into the threaded drain hole. This member here said it works great. 

Also, Z1enterprises sells a fitting with a hose attached to screw into the bowl drain.

Really? All I've found there is a fitting for the VM 29 carbs that goes into the hole for accessing the main jet. 

Regardless, I'm not trying to hijack this thread. Carry on.

Buzz Nichols wrote:

Really? All I've found there is a fitting for the VM 29 carbs that goes into the hole for accessing the main jet. 

Regardless, I'm not trying to hijack this thread. Carry on.

Z1E part no 200-1041
"Fits Mikuni VM-24  VM26  VM28"