TOPIC:

Thanks for the advice guys!
I wired up a relay for the coils and I'm getting a nice spark now.
She only runs on 2 legs though.
Looks like the coil for cyl 2-3 is toast. I'm not getting any spark and no ohm reading on the secondary windings. 
Any suggestions on where to a set of coils( with decent quality and price) ?  Z1 Ent. and Z1 Parts have a sets running about $95. But I don't know the quality!
What ohm rating do I need to get? I'm running points at this point.
And maybe a stupid question. Should I replace both coils, Or just the toasted one?
Thanks again for the help!
Conrad

Check the FSM but I believe what you require are 3-4ohm primary and 10-15kohms secondary, given the bike is 45 years old with unknown history I would suggest replacing both (budget permitting) and keep the good one as a spare

Wookie58 wrote:

Check the FSM but I believe what you require are 3-4ohm primary and 10-15kohms secondary, given the bike is 45 years old with unknown history I would suggest replacing both (budget permitting) and keep the good one as a spare

That’s what I was thinking. This one quit for no reason ( it worked last fall when I had it running) 
I couldn’t find it in the FSM
but then again. My wife says I look with my eyes closed! Lol
Thats the readings I got from 1,4 coil
What brand of Coil do you normally buy?

I think others can advise you best on brand, I know the theory and principles but have limited model specific experience

Don't wanna hijack this thread, but Rolf, plug wires and terminals are cheap enough new (especially if you make your own), why would you take a chance on some else's used ones?
Same with coils, you're better off with new.
Also, don't use resistor wires with resistor plugs, you can get away with one or the other but not both.  Best is solid copper core wires with non resistor plugs.  (my preference is Denso non resistor plugs, but there are others).
OK, now back to Treetall's subjects.  

sf4t7 wrote:

Don't wanna hijack this thread, but Rolf, plug wires and terminals are cheap enough new (especially if you make your own), why would you take a chance on some else's used ones?
Same with coils, you're better off with new.
Also, don't use resistor wires with resistor plugs, you can get away with one or the other but not both.  Best is solid copper core wires with non resistor plugs.  (my preference is Denso non resistor plugs, but there are others).
OK, now back to Treetall's subjects.  

I have a new boyer bransden kit that came with new coils and wires and planning to install that ,but just want yellow or lime green plugwires for the looks.
I now have a dyna s installed ,but think it is a cheep replica. In August  one coil melted when riding made bubbles underside of the coil and smelled burnt electrical. Some days before that i changed out the plugcaps to non resistor also used non resistor sparkplugs. The bike also had resistor placed on the plugwires itself. I changed to non resistor caps and plugs becuase the bike suddenly started to run bad and read that it is better to run with non resistance plugs and caps.
Then i found that the timingchain had jumped because of worn sliders rollers tensioner and chain .That has made me torn down the engine =)
I now have a little new problem that is when i will fire up the bike after rebuild of the engine im not sure what i will do with the ignition i mean if i will fire it up with the dyna s that sits on the bike and maybe melted the coil or if i shall install the boyer brasden kit before first start.After first start i will run the engine on road  soon as possible to seat the rings not fiddling with adusting the ignition and engine idling.

 

So I ordered steering stem bearings from Fortnine. $60 C$  and free shipping. Just in case there are Canucks price comparing.
I also learned a new word!  When the bearing makes the little indents in the race, its called Brinell or has gone Brinell!
I first attempted to cut some slots in the race, to make removal easier. but there's not enough shoulder for a punch.
I think it was Mikaw mentioned on here to weld a washer to the race. Worked a charm!
Here are some pics of my playing around!
The first is a chunk of ready rod to hold the washer while I welded it in place.
Second is laughable welding job, but it got the job done!
Third is my race install tool. Using the old bearings, I squeezed the new races into place. I know the thing looks like WTF! But it worked a peach. I've always had a problem with the races going cockeyed when I try to tap them in with a hammer.
 

Thanks Treetall and Mikaw for that bearing race removal tip.  I can't tell you how many punches I've had to grind square after rounding the tips trying to remove bearing races from front rotors or drums over the last 40 years.   As they said in the old Guinness commercial - BRILLIANT !

Brinell is actually a hardness scale.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale#:~:t...0materials%20science.
 

hardrockminer wrote:

Brinell is actually a hardness scale.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale#:~:t...0materials%20science.

I looked at it after I posted it, and ya I didn't have it right.
What I should maybe said was " It's lost it's Brinell" ! But that's not exactly right either!
There I go, trying to be a fart smeller! LOL
 

Actually the term for that condition would be the races are "brinelled"