Wiring diagram with munit - REVIEW

Thank you !

Updates:
1. I have renamed the input switch to High Beam
2. Increase the fuse from the regulator
3. Wired the park light to aux, same place where the rear light is connected, so I can use park light and rear light as you say if I switch to "Hi Beam" before you turn of the ignition.

What do you think, ready for building it ?

I would say "good to go"

I have used a multimeter to find each «pair» on each switch on left and right handel bar switches.

the only one I don’t understand is Horn….
I cannot find the ground cable for horn?

But I get connection against the house and rhe two plates i dicated with red circle… so it has ground to the house case…


 


 

Look at your horn.
Does it have 1 wire at the horn?
If it does the the horn is grounded at the frame where it mounts.
The button controls a +12v line only.
You'll probably have to flip the button on the handlebar from +12v to ground.
I flipped everything in my handlebar switches to ground.

Of course this is just a guess--i have been absent for most of this thread.

ok, i looked at a schematic.
It looks like the horn button is grounded to the switch housing.
The switch housing will have to be installed on the handelbar and the handlebar grounded for the horn button to work and send a ground signal to your munit.
You could also run a separate ground wire to the switch housing just in case your handlebar is isolated from ground.
You should be able to get continuity between the switch housing bare metal(the bottom half where the button is located) and the horn wire coming out of the housing when you press the horn button.

F64 wrote:

Look at your horn.
Does it have 1 wire at the horn?
If it does the the horn is grounded at the frame where it mounts.
The button controls a +12v line only.
You'll probably have to flip the button on the handlebar from +12v to ground.
I flipped everything in my handlebar switches to ground.

Of course this is just a guess--i have been absent for most of this thread.

ok, i looked at a schematic.
It looks like the horn button is grounded to the switch housing.
The switch housing will have to be installed on the handelbar and the handlebar grounded for the horn button to work and send a ground signal to your munit.
You could also run a separate ground wire to the switch housing just in case your handlebar is isolated from ground.
You should be able to get continuity between the switch housing bare metal(the bottom half where the button is located) and the horn wire coming out of the housing when you press the horn button.

Weired why they have done it like that… and only horn… I will try to to solid a new ground cable from a good place to a exsisting ground cable in the house. The house will not get ground it self, the steering has paint on the handelbar.

gordone wrote:

F64 wrote:

ok, i looked at a schematic.
It looks like the horn button is grounded to the switch housing.
The switch housing will have to be installed on the handelbar and the handlebar grounded for the horn button to work and send a ground signal to your munit.
You could also run a separate ground wire to the switch housing just in case your handlebar is isolated from ground.
You should be able to get continuity between the switch housing bare metal(the bottom half where the button is located) and the horn wire coming out of the housing when you press the horn button.

Weired why they have done it like that… and only horn… I will try to to solid a new ground cable from a good place to a exsisting ground cable in the house. The house will not get ground it self, the steering has paint on the handelbar.

In the original OE set up the horn is the only "switched" ground. This is done to reduce wiring (and production cost) the car world does the same grounding horns to the steering column. If you follow the switch wiring configuration I gave you then blue the brown and the orange are already grounds so you can loop off of them rather than run an additional wire to the ground plate in the switch

Wookie58 wrote:

gordone wrote:

F64 wrote:

ok, i looked at a schematic.
It looks like the horn button is grounded to the switch housing.
The switch housing will have to be installed on the handelbar and the handlebar grounded for the horn button to work and send a ground signal to your munit.
You could also run a separate ground wire to the switch housing just in case your handlebar is isolated from ground.
You should be able to get continuity between the switch housing bare metal(the bottom half where the button is located) and the horn wire coming out of the housing when you press the horn button.

Weired why they have done it like that… and only horn… I will try to to solid a new ground cable from a good place to a exsisting ground cable in the house. The house will not get ground it self, the steering has paint on the handelbar.

In the original OE set up the horn is the only "switched" ground. This is done to reduce wiring (and production cost) the car world does the same grounding horns to the steering column. If you follow the switch wiring configuration I gave you then blue the brown and the orange are already grounds so you can loop off of them rather than run an additional wire to the ground plate in the switch

Ahh okay, added a exstra cable from the plate inside in the house (screw) to ground for left/right.

thank you

Cable size when it comes to IC unit and coils, can I use 0,5^2mm or do I need to use 1,5^2 ?

In general my plan:
0,5^2mm - cabling betweeen switches and M-unit input
1,5^2mm - to lights and horn
2,5^2mm - to starter motor

I just want to double check I have understood the wiring og IC and coil correct, please see attached photo:

Looks correct to me

Thank you !

How do you normally fasten these DTM connectors, so they are not loose?