TOPIC:

Ran into that difficulty in 2016 while searching for cables for a ZN1100 dual-cable control housing which I chose to use with my RS carbs.  
Nothing was (and nothing yet is) available for that setup...only option was to custom build them.

I'm still dumbfounded by how well they work. 

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Ran into that difficulty in 2016 while searching for cables for a ZN1100 dual-cable control housing which I chose to use with my RS carbs.  
Nothing was (and nothing yet is) available for that setup...only option was to custom build them.

I'm still dumbfounded by how well they work. 

What cables did you use?  Is there some sort stock that can be used to fabricate the cables??

577nitro-

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Doc/gamma/Bob:

I just wanted thank you for sending me on a fantastic goose chase trying to track down ancient, elusive, critically endangered 54012-1018/9 species of cable.    Thanks a lot Buddy!  

Holy Crap,  I think I found one in Germany, but I can't verify it's and actual OEM one.  It has a TKM marking on it, so if someone could check their real ones to see if it has that.  
Of course there is 10billion MP out there, there are some German made aftermarket ones, that seem pretty good...but I know nothing about them.  

The search goes on....

577Nitro-




 

Sorry about that!!!  They are out there and they show up on ebay every once and awhile. Sometimes the seller will list them as Z1r throttle cables without the part number.
Real Kawasaki cables have a portion of their part number right on each cable up near the handlebar end. You will see "12-1018" and "12-1019" in white print on real Z1r cables.
I have never seen a new O.E.M. Kawasaki cable without the ID code on them.

There are vintage Suzuki GS1000S throttle cables that are about 1/1/2 shorter than the Z1r cables. That Suzuki part number is 58300-45601. They too are NLA from Suzuki.

 

DR/Gamma/Bob:

Thanks I’ll check the marking….I did find a 10180 the closing is harder to find.   

I do have a question on your S1 if you can remember.   I bought a replica lower triple clamp, it and the stem are ALU,  Do you remember if the stem was pressed in or welded to the clamp.  The stem I have can only be pressed in from the top, not the bottom up.   This leads me to think its pressed in them welded.  No instructions from the manufacture.   It is a high quality product though….exact copy of the S1.   Also what frame was used for the base build…I know the top triple clamp was a 81 GPZ 1100 unit.   Only the 81 GPZ1100 had that style clamp and it was ALU.  The J model had the key mount in the center the S1 had the left side off set key hole.   

Thanks!
577nitro-

The real S1 lower tree had a steel steering stem and it was pressed in place. I checked with a buddy of mine that has a real S1 all apart right now so I can tell you for sure its steel!!!!

He sent me a photo of it but my computer won't let me copy and paste it. So you don't get a photo.

I HATE COMPUTERS!!!! I HATE COMPUTERS!!!! I HATE COMPUTERS!!!! I HATE COMPUTERS!!!!

I believe the S1 started out with the GPz frame because of the different fork angle than what the "J" model frame came with.

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The real S1 lower tree had a steel steering stem and it was pressed in place. I checked with a buddy of mine that has a real S1 all apart right now so I can tell you for sure its steel!!!!

He sent me a photo of it but my computer won't let me copy and paste it. So you don't get a photo.

I HATE COMPUTERS!!!! I HATE COMPUTERS!!!! I HATE COMPUTERS!!!! I HATE COMPUTERS!!!!

I believe the S1 started out with the GPz frame because of the different fork angle than what the "J" model frame came with.

To save a photo, right click (the right hand side mouse button) then select save in the pull down to some place you can get to like Documents.   Then you can upload to the board.

The 81 GPZ1100 has ALU for both top and bottom, and a pressed in steel from the bottom.  I asked Wayne(S1) a while back and he thought it was ALU, but maybe that's not the case.  I'm a bit skeptical of an ALU stem, that's a lot of force on that piece.  Also....did the S1 have the bathtub head by then?  Sorry to go off topic..

577nitro

 

Update:  The Yoshumira throttle holder came in, as advertised, billet ALU, machined.   No wiggle or binding in the throttle tube.   However, there just is no fixing the crap cables…all the friction is coming from them.  Any curve to them and they bind up and you can actually feel the grinding.  

Just have to wait now for the OEM’s to come in.   If that doesn’t work then I’m going to jury rig up a fly by wire using a triumph triple throttle body and throttle I found from a crashed bike.   The throttle body has a servo in it that can be removed, and the system is simply a rheostat.   

577nitro

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Update:  The Yoshumira throttle holder came in, as advertised, billet ALU, machined.   No wiggle or binding in the throttle tube.   However, there just is no fixing the crap cables…all the friction is coming from them.  Any curve to them and they bind up and you can actually feel the grinding.  

Just have to wait now for the OEM’s to come in.   If that doesn’t work then I’m going to jury rig up a fly by wire using a triumph triple throttle body and throttle I found from a crashed bike.   The throttle body has a servo in it that can be removed, and the system is simply a rheostat.   

577nitro
 

If you do that please post it here. Fly by wire sounds pretty wild for one of these bikes.

The S1 came with the bath tub design cylinder head. It was the first Kz that used the bath tub cylinder head. Kawasaki then used the design head on the '83/'84 ZX1100's (GPz1100).

What throttle tube did you get with the Yoshimura throttle???

 

Mine came with the one on the left.

I would say the throttle tube design on the right side is the Yoshi part.....

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Update:  The Yoshumira throttle holder came in, as advertised, billet ALU, machined.   No wiggle or binding in the throttle tube.   However, there just is no fixing the crap cables…all the friction is coming from them.  Any curve to them and they bind up and you can actually feel the grinding.  

Just have to wait now for the OEM’s to come in.   If that doesn’t work then I’m going to jury rig up a fly by wire using a triumph triple throttle body and throttle I found from a crashed bike.   The throttle body has a servo in it that can be removed, and the system is simply a rheostat.   

577nitro


 

If you do that please post it here. Fly by wire sounds pretty wild for one of these bikes.

Just a word of caution with this, I have done a lot of work on cars with "fly by wire" throttles and I think you may be over simplifying the set-up. I am not familiar with the Triumph system but it is unlikely to be a straightforward rheostat throttle control acting on the stepper motor on the throttle bodies (not least because of the current draw of the motor) In the systems I have dealt with the throttle position input signal goes to an ECU which takes the information together with signals from speed sensors, intake air temp etc and then calculates the output to the stepper motor to open the throttle. Nice idea if you can make it work though 

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wrote:

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Update:  The Yoshumira throttle holder came in, as advertised, billet ALU, machined.   No wiggle or binding in the throttle tube.   However, there just is no fixing the crap cables…all the friction is coming from them.  Any curve to them and they bind up and you can actually feel the grinding.  

Just have to wait now for the OEM’s to come in.   If that doesn’t work then I’m going to jury rig up a fly by wire using a triumph triple throttle body and throttle I found from a crashed bike.   The throttle body has a servo in it that can be removed, and the system is simply a rheostat.   

577nitro



 

If you do that please post it here. Fly by wire sounds pretty wild for one of these bikes.

Just a word of caution with this, I have done a lot of work on cars with "fly by wire" throttles and I think you may be over simplifying the set-up. I am not familiar with the Triumph system but it is unlikely to be a straightforward rheostat throttle control acting on the stepper motor on the throttle bodies (not least because of the current draw of the motor) In the systems I have dealt with the throttle position input signal goes to an ECU which takes the information together with signals from speed sensors, intake air temp etc and then calculates the output to the stepper motor to open the throttle. Nice idea if you can make it work though 

I'm sure there will be issues, my EE buddy has the exact bike, and we will fiddle it till it works.   We might need to bread board up some simple circuit, won't know till we try, the parts are cheap and he can use them as spares if it doesn't work.

577nitro-