Yep, I in need of help....again

I got the carbs cleaned, ultrasonic cleaner, and replaced all the brass parts, jets, idle mixture screws, etc.  I adjusted the floats using the clear tube method.  I installed the carbs and tried to get them adjusted via my Morgan Carb tune.

First problem:  I have no reading on the Carb Tune.  The steel rods stay at the bottom of the meter and only move after revving the engine a bit, and then only when the engine was decelerating.  Why is this happening?

Second:  I used all stock sizes for the replacement parts.  I pulled the brand new plugs I had installed and they are as black as can be.  Obviously VERY rich.  I tried first adjusting the idle mixture screws, but they seemed to have no affect on how the engine ran.  I live at an altitude of about 2700 feet above sea level.  The stock sizes shouldn't be that far off, should they?  I don't really want to through the hassle of replacing jets, but seems I am going to need to.  Any suggestions for this, as far as what size jets to use?  The most I revved the engine to was about 3000 rpm.  I went through a half liter bottle of gas in a very short period of time.  

Just to remind people that offer suggestion, it's an all stock 2000 KZP.  As always, I do appreciate all your help and guidance.

Ebay carb kits by any chance? 
NEVER replace the jets or needles with anything other than genuine mikuni or kyster brass parts.
clean the genuine parts not replace them.

The higher or hotter the environment the "thinner" the air becomes - Factory jetting is a compromise for a specific market (North America, South Africa, Asia Pacific etc) so smaller than stock jets may be required at that altitude ?
Maximum vacum is achieved against a closed throttle, when you rev the motor then close the throttle you get high vacum which is why the gauge is performing the way it is - little or no vacum at idle would suggest an air leak

EDIT: looks like the altitude effect would be negligent - have you replaced/rebuilt the choke plungers ?

Thank you both.  No on the cheapo ebay parts.  I have not done the choke plungers.  I didn't use the choke to start the bike.  Would that still affect the mixture?  I forgot to add the i have installed new carb holders and clamps.  Lastly, when I pulled the old plugs, they too were very black and fouled.

rickysnicker wrote:

Thank you both.  No on the cheapo ebay parts.  I have not done the choke plungers.  I didn't use the choke to start the bike.  Would that still affect the mixture?  I forgot to add the i have installed new carb holders and clamps.  Lastly, when I pulled the old plugs, they too were very black and fouled.

If the seals are worn in the plungers they won't close fully allowing additional fuel to dribble into the intakes

I've read a member in the UK does the plungers.  Does anyone in the States do this?  If not, what do I need to buy in order to replace these?  Oh, and don't say, "New plungers!"  LOL!!!!!!

Zed1015 does them, he will do the US but I don’t know how long it takes to ship each way, probably around a week each way I would think 

I can attest to Zeds work. I sent him 2 sets of plungers for my KZ650, shipped from New Zealand to the UK and back. Excellent work and service. Very quick turnaround and delivery. Hope this helps.
He replaces the rubber parts in your plungers.
Rich.

Some things to check before you totally become despondent. Did you separate the whole assembly when cleaning/replacing or just work on stuff as a whole? I ask this because these style BS34's utilized choke plungers without any springs on the plungers their selves. Depending solely on the individual choke lifters and their little springs to "push" the plungers home. Also they used 2 little ball bearings and 2 springs in 2 of the carb castings where the choke rod goes thru. If these are not present then the choke plunger pads won't become seated when choke is turned off or choke knob fully pushed back in. The two little balls fall into a detent on choke rod holding it in place. Also of course make sure all the brass washers (4) are installed under the (4) main jets. If these are missing then fuel rushes past the main jet hole and gets sucked-up thru the jet holder, usually thru the holder locating slot creating a super rich mixture. Also note these brass washers should be installed "flat" side towards jet holder/emulsion tube. Make sure the plug 92066-1087, is in place and it's oring in good shape. You want a nice friction fit!! Without this fuel will also bypass the main jet and fuel will be drawn directly from bowl. Casting is cross drilled between pilot and main jet areas. You said you checked fuel level, static float height should be around 18.6mm. Anyway..some more stuff to ponder or double check, sorry ha. Have Fun!    

I would add to that on mine the levers that operate the plungers where bent from being pulled too hard in the past. I had to straighten these to fully seat the plungers 

Absolutely Wookie!! Have seen that several times too! If possible Rick, send some photos for reference. It's easily detectable if those choke lifters aren't doing their job.

Thanks for all those suggestions!  I did work on them as one unit, meaning, I did not "un-gang" them.  The little silver plugs are brand new and have new orings, so those have been taken care of.  I can absolutely take pictures.  Tell me what specifically you'd like photos of and I will post them.