TOPIC:

Need some tuning advise.
last fall I rebuilt the carbs on my 1000 B2.. It ran better but was never happy with the low RPM performance. It seemed to surge and hunt for RPM... I figured sense the carbs were good it had to be in the drive line, AKA chain or crush drive.. Well I have replaced the crush drive and adjusted the chain... nothing different... So I went looking elsewhere... starting again to double check my carb work... Using the clear tube method, I found the float level way high, actually above the base of the carb used to measure... I built a fixture to mount the carbs on the bench and readjusted the float levels with the clear tube... Man what a PITA... carbs are mounted and idle air screws adjusted... put the sync gauges on and not too bad but I will re-sync... problem is still a rough idle and biggest concern is finding raw fuel inside the vacuum caps when removed to install the sync gauges... is that normal or an indication of something wrong? with the pods off, bike on main stand I crack open the throttle it seems to bogg and I see raw fuel spitting out of the carbs... 15 pilots and 122.5 mains with needle clips in the stock position... valves were shimmed in the fall also.. I know I did that correct and double checked that... cant get idle low enough and steady enough to check low rpm timing...

Fuel in the caps is normal. Sounding too lean on the bottom. With pods you should have larger pilot jets.
Steve

Steve, you suggesting Lean on the pilots? Even with the fuel spray out of the carbs?

I agree, if your are running the bike without any type of air filters then it will be running very lean. You say you say you set the air screws what did you set them to?

starting setting was 1-1/2 turns out. adjusted them while the bike was running to get increase in RPM then turned in just slightly...

Does it run better with the air screws turn in? I'd start at 1/4 turn.
Steve

tomorrow I will install the pods, check timing, sync and check the idle air screws... also check for vacuum leaks

If it's spitting back out of the carbs then you'd best check your valve clearances. Also run a compression check.

Barry1 wrote: If it's spitting back out of the carbs then you'd best check your valve clearances.

I did that last fall but I will pull it down and check them again... I set them to spec suggested buy a well respected KZ builder... I converted the MM to thousandths and was told to set the intake to .002 - .004 that converts to .0508 - .1016MM and the exhaust to .003 - .005 thousandths or .0762 - .127MM. My hand written records show I recorder the following finale as adjusted clearances.

#1 Intake shim 230 = .003 exhaust shim 260 = .005
#2 intake shim 235 = .003 exhaust shim 265 = .004
#3 intake shim 220 = .004 exhaust shim 280 = .004
#4 intake shim 220 = .003 exhaust shim 275 = .0045

I'd love some feedback if this community feels I set them correctly

Also in full clarification my carbs only have pilot fuel screws on the bottom no pilot air screws on the top/side... Nessism wrote in another carb post to adjust the pilot air screws to get highest idle. Is the same true for pilot fuel screws? As mention earlier I adjusted the pilot air screw (misidentified them) Should have called them correctly as pilot fuel screws, to get the highest idle and then turned them in just slightly, less than a 1/16 of a turn in...

Did I adjust the pilot fuel screws correctly?

If fuel screws turn to best idle then out 1/16th. Then see if it's better.
Steve

For 1978 I believe the valve clearance was 0.05mm to 0.10 mm on both intake and exhaust. Measurements to be taken cold. For 1979 they increased the maximum to 0.15 mm. I normally aim for the high side because clearance decreases over time.

If you are going to check your clearances again you should also check your timing. This could be the cause of your idle problems.

The attached photo shows the correct procedure to set your pilot screws.