TOPIC:

Might be a little bias but she looks good under the parking lot lights

hardrockminer wrote: The B1 did not use that one. It used 21148-010.

You can try to measure the angle between the T mark and the F mark to confirm yours is correct for your bike.

Yes, the primary side is the voltage input to the coil. The secondary side is the voltage output to the sparkplugs.

Are you sure about the advancer. Mine has the 21148-1003 as in the photo above. Your sure it’s the 21148-010. If your correct my ‘78 B2 has the wrong advancer.

I’ll test voltage to the primary of the coil tomorrow. Should it be the same as battery voltage?

Are comment on the plug colors? 1&4 are slightly darker. Which is a better color. 1&4or2&3?

According to Partzilla the B2 used 21148-1003 but the B1 used 21148-010. That's likely due to the earlier firing of the B1 ignition....10 deg BTDC vs yours which is 20 deg BTDC. Both are shown as Item 2 on the parts diagram.

The voltage at the coils will likely be less than at the battery. Battery should be 12.5 V or better. Coils would likely be a volt less due to resistance in the connections. If the difference is greater than 1 volt you should clean all contacts carefully. You could also consider Wired George's relay setup. You can find it here.

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/using-joomla/e...-categories/89-COILS

Edited to add that I think the reason the B2 has a different timing is because they were trying to comply with tougher emission regs at the time and advancing the timing at idle was one way to improve fuel burn. That said...it probably doesn't matter much which one you use.

Hardrock.
I checked voltage at the coil primary and its only 9.75. my static battery voltage is 12.5 and drops to 11.9 when ignition is switched on... I traced thur wires only as far as where the positive wire disappears into the harness… I have battery voltage at starter solenoid. in and out of fuse box and coming out of the brown connector... I loose voltage after that... I'm going to have to open up the harness and see what is happening... im assuming that's why I'm not happy with the halogen head light conversion, I bet is low power to it and not the bulbs fault... thank you for the tip... now I have to figure it out...

Unless the wires got too hot and their resistance is now too high, opening the harness would be unnecessary work and a waste of time. You might try running a hot wire to the components you suspect are getting low power to isolate where the problem is. On the Z1/KZ 1000 block connections, the white connector has a bad habit of shorting out there. I'd inspect and clean all the connections leading back to the battery. My low charging and power problems were bad connections.
Steve

I agree with Steve. Don't butcher your harness. The voltage drop will be in the connectors. Buy a can of electric contact cleaning fluid and a toothbrush and clean them up. I bet you will be over 11 volts if you do. And take a hard look at that coil relay setup. It acts like a hotwire and will give you 12 volts at the coils.

well I didn't cut open the harness.... I got out the wiring diagram and traced down the power wire to the coils. it runs thru the right hand control... goes in brown and out as yellow with red stripe... cleaned up all connections and seem to have increased it to within a 1.6 volt difference… still think I'm going to do the relay to get full battery voltage to the coils unless I get better results tomorrow... as luck would have it I put everything back together and started the bike to check running voltage and noticed #1 carb float stuck and dripping fuel... just cant win... done for the night... need to step back relax and try again tomorrow... thanks for all the help.... more updates tomorrow

one more nugget to reflect on for me.... coming out of the RH control, there are also a blue/white and a brown/white that supply power to other items of the Brown power that runs thru the kill switch... without those connected I get within .5 volts of battery. when I connect the Bl/Wht and Br/Wht voltage to the coils drops about 1.10 volts...

Ok, so I fixed the sticky float, I hope. I did some real honest testing and here are the results.....

static battery voltage ignition off =12.33 A little low but I started the bike and ran it to run the fuel lines dry for cleaner removal.
battery voltage with ignition on = 11.99
voltage at yellow/red wire with dual bullet connector, factory power wire for coils = 11.58 with ignition on obviously and red wire power to pick ups disconnected.
per the Dyna electronic ignition you used the supplied scotch lock and connected the red power for the electronic pick ups to the same yellow/red wire... when I connect it the voltage to the coils drops to 10.88.

Not sure I need to use the relay fix for the coils as I'm only loosing .41 volts but I feel I need to find an alternate switched power source for the electronic pick ups...

which standard bulbs can be switched out to led to lighten the load. and can anyone suggest ones they have had success with...

I think what you are saying is that the Dyna connection is crappy. I agree. I had a lot of problems with it when I bought a Dyna for my Z1B.

If you look at your wiring diagram there should be a spare double brown female connector up near the headlight. That's what I use to power my Dyna ignition.

hardrockminer wrote: I think what you are saying is that the Dyna connection is crappy. I agree. I had a lot of problems with it when I bought a Dyna for my Z1B.

If you look at your wiring diagram there should be a spare double brown female connector up near the headlight. That's what I use to power my Dyna ignition.

hardrock, think I'll try that. First ill look thru the wiring diagram and make sure that brown is on a different fuse or circuit than the coil power... I did accomplish getting all connections under the tank and at the electro bracket clean and inspected... I was impressed that all wires were still soft and every connection was easily disconnected and serviceable... Next I'm going to move up into the headlight bucket and test and clean all of those connection... At that time I can find a new switched power source for the pick-ups...

Still looking for recommendations on LED bulbs that others have had success with... I'd really like to free up as much draw on the system as I can, and a positive side effect will be brighter lighting which should increase rider safety... Maybe I will start another post asking for help with them...

Really need some help here
Disconnected all connections and cleaned, didn't find any that were seriously bad...even pulled apart the kill switch in the RH control... I disconnect the running light and head light, test voltage at coils with ignition on and it only .07 volts below battery, but that's without the Dyna electronic pick up wire connected. I made a jumper wire to power the pick ups direct off the positive on the battery and when I connect the pick ups to battery voltage the coil primary drops buy 1.60 volts below battery... I also here the coils chatter as I connect the pick up power lead to the battery... If I leave the pick ups powered and disconnect the coils at the primary the voltage at the coil power wire returns to .07 -.10 of battery... so that means with coil primary and pick ups powered im loosing almost 2 volt.... Need some help please