Scratches on cam lobes after ~30 km ride

I won't argue what type of oil is BEST to use, I just will say that the type of oil didn't cause this problem.  

KZ 1100 wrote:

Cam shells? 
You mean bearings? I just lubed it with engine oil that's all. No special stuff used.
What do you think about 4th cap?

Yes! The correct name for the bearing inserts are plain bearing shells.
Is the lobe scoring only on the right side of the in and ex cams ?
If so this may indicate a restriction to that side of the head.
This may be caused by dislodged /distorted cylinder head gasket 'O' ring which is causing a restriction around the right rear cylinder stud..
Before going any further you should inspect the condition of the shell bearings in 2 and 4 cam caps.

zed1015 wrote:

Yes! The correct name for the bearing inserts are plain bearing shells.
Is the lobe scoring only on the right side of the in and ex cams ?
If so this may indicate a restriction to that side of the head.
This may be caused by dislodged /distorted cylinder head gasket 'O' ring which is causing a restriction around the right rear cylinder stud..
Before going any further you should inspect the condition of the shell bearings in 2 and 4 cam caps.

There's one tiny scratch on intake 1 lobe but it may be old. 
Personally I don't see any oiling problem on cap 2 and I really don't want to mess with it cos the next time I'll be most likely holding on 3 bolts instead of 4. 
My only concern with oiling is cap 4. Do you think its oiling looks too bad or it's acceptable?

KZ 1100 wrote:

There's one tiny scratch on intake 1 lobe but it may be old. 
Personally I don't see any oiling problem on cap 2 and I really don't want to mess with it cos the next time I'll be most likely holding on 3 bolts instead of 4. 
My only concern with oiling is cap 4. Do you think its oiling looks too bad or it's acceptable?

Do you mean intake lobe 4 as the cylinders are numbered left to right ( lobe 1 is fed from cap 3 on the left)..

If there really is no recent damage to the righthand side inlet lobes (3 and 4)  then there isn't a problem with oiling on cap 4 ..

Also which shims were replaced when you first overhauled the head and were they used, new ,genuine or pattern and if pattern do these correspond to the damaged lobes..

zed1015 wrote:

Do you mean intake lobe 4 as the cylinders are numbered left to right ( lobe 1 is fed from cap 3 on the left)..

If there really is no recent damage to the righthand side inlet lobes (3 and 4)  then there isn't a problem with oiling on cap 4 ..

Also which shims were replaced when you first overhauled the head and were they used, new ,genuine or pattern and if pattern do these correspond to the damaged lobes..

I meant the first cylinder's exhaust (accidentally wrote intake) lobe.

As I wrote before, there's a bit of damage on third's cylinder intake lobe (inlet lobe 3 as you wrote) but my last question about oiling is regarded to oil pool visible when running the engine without cam cover. Caps 1,2 and 3 have good rich oiling with the "bucket area" underneath the cap is fully filled with oil as well as lobes. Cap 4 and inlet lobe 3 have it a bit worse but they are still lubricated. 
I hope it can be seen on photos. I made a video as well but dunno how to post it. 
So I'd really appreciate an opinion on how should it look to be good enough to work.

The shims that work with damaged lobes are the old ones. Two of three of them also have a slight but visible scratch.
The new ones made by TourMax I believe. Hard to buy them here and only with 0,1 difference are available like you can buy 2,55 and 2,65 but not 2,50 and 2,60. 

The shims of the BMW K75 and K100 model engine will fit into the Z1, KZ900/1000/1100 buckets (diameter = 29 mm).
They have the same adjustment range (2,00 -3,20 mm), so go and visit your local BMW shop on monday.
Don´t forget to use assembly lube next time.......

Has the head been previously bead-blasted? My 2-Yen but like ZED mentioned and others. Oil pressure is fed up thru and around the rear/outer cylinder studs into the head galleys, this you know. But the head diverts this oil feed to the exhaust front/outer cylinder studs thru galleys, also i'm sure You're aware of. So these cylinder studs are just dummies but still contain oil. What "could of happened" is if head was blasted. Those head side holes that feed the EX camshaft, that galley is originally milled waay beyond the #2&3 cylinder oiling holes. What can happen is this galley gets jammed-up with media from blasting and gets kicked-up when started and will plug/score the bearing shells. So.. "could" be a trickle down effect. No oil pushing out the clearance of cap, no oil to feed the lifter buckets. I know ya don't want to break down the engine again but like has been suggested, remove the camcaps for inspection. Also, you didn't mention what style of cylinder you had? They had two different kinds. Some had a dowel that the cyl to head oring went around some didn't have that dowel.     

Some stuff. I pull the galley plugs all the time to clean residual crap from aged muck and to totally verify no media is still lodged in the back of the feed holes for the cams. Sticky old oil can easily capture aggerate, making a paste of grit in short order jacking up even the best intentions and "thought" outward clean as the health dept outward appearance. grab a sandwich and a beverage and give this some thought..  Don't be a tart and ignore this, once you start
hearing a squeal, eminent seizure is on the horizon.   

A few words to finish the topic. 
Ran the bike bike without cam cover and oiling was okay even though on 4th cap a little bit weaker. Pulled the cap to check but both of the galleys were perfectly clean and the shells were oiled so I put it back and went for a ride. So far so good. 
Big thanks to everyone for the answers!
Btw any "life hack" on how to make fuel cap seal better?

Btw any "life hack" on how to make fuel cap seal better?

A new and soft rubber gasket will give the fuel cap a tight fit and will seal the best!

KZ 1100 wrote:

Btw any "life hack" on how to make fuel cap seal better?



 

you can buy new gasket.

That'd be too easy 
It's not like you can pull up to the nearest parts shop and ask for it like with that GTO carb rebuild kit in two lane blacktop.
Gotta go to the farming equipment parts store and ask for something similar.
I meant maybe something will fit from a newer stuff?