My 650 CSR project

Wookie58 wrote:

The handlebars being out of line with the wheel can simply be the forks have twisted in the trees (slacken the trees, hold the wheel between your knees and jerk the bars to pull them into line then tighten the trees) You could buy a cheap angle gauge from Amazon or the like and check the "head angle" on the portion of the fork between the trees with the wheel straight ahead (however it does sound like it's had a "smack on the nose" !!)

 

Yep, I already tried that yesterday and thought I had posted it but I guess not. I also made up a tool with a sliding t-bevel and a spirit level and came up with about 29 degrees on the forks (or 61 from horizontal). I did get the bars aligned with the wheel but that didn't fix the underlying problem. The stops on the lower tree are not equidistant from the stop below the head tube. Pictures below. . Its easy to see that the post under the head tube is not in line with the center of the steering tube, and the stops on the triple are different distances from it. Hope it isn't a bent head tube; it looks straight to me but I don't have a great view

   




 

If you clamp 2 "straight" 2x2's to either side of the back wheel does the front wheel sit central between the two spars ?

Wookie58 wrote:

If you clamp 2 "straight" 2x2's to either side of the back wheel does the front wheel sit central between the two spars ?
 

Great idea, but the center stand and the wood conspire against me. I will keep trying to figure out a variation that I can make work. May not need it though.

I took the horn off, shoved my head up under the fork, and can clearly see the steering stop on the frame is bent to the left.  The bent stop is not in alignment with the head tube, and the head tube appears unbent, so I think the stop is the main issue with the steering. 

I think I can breathe a deep sigh of relief about the front end although there may still be some fork work to be done. I still have a small concern about the sprockets lining up perfectly because of the side rail deformation so I will turn my attention to that. If I feel comfortable that they will line up, this project can move forward.

 

without reading any of the posts.  check to see if the steering stop is bent.  check the forks to see if the tubes are bent. check the steering head to see if it's bent. a glass table or pane of glass is handy. 

So you guys think that just "stitching up" that split will be adequate repair for the frame? I guess I just wonder and worry if that swelling compromises the frame. After much searching I did finally find someone local who does power sports repair who said "that looks like an easy fix"  and I just want to placate my considerable anxiety.

As stated, that's a low stress area of the frame.  Weld and go.  

Hi, this is an easy repair, use a cutting disc to slice through the split, this will clean up the metal and allow the tube to be compressed to reduce the bulge. Do this again if necessary to remove the bulge and then it can be welded up. Ideally TIG, but MIG will also be fine.
 I used to teach vehicle body and paint repairs, including chassis repairs and jig collision repairs, so that split is not a problem.
Hope this helps.
Rich.

Everything seems straight as an arrow now. My front wheel is centered and points straight ahead. I changed the fork oil, although it may need new seals I'm not 100% sure yet. I think the air valve stems need to be changed anyway.

I got my new chain and new sprockets on, got my new-to-me OEM handlebars. It was not easy finding stock handlebars, and I wanted stock for now to avoid cable length problems. I can deal with those later if I want different bars. And I already do. My goodness these bars are ugly. Wow. Lol. What were they thinking? I may have to ride only after dark so nobody sees me, but I don't like to ride after dark with all the deer around here. They do not seem to respect "Start Seeing Motorcycles" signs.My neighbor said he would weld up that frame for me and he has a trailer, so I won't even have to rent one to get it to the other guy who lives a couple miles away. After its welded and once  my new master cylinder arrives and gets installed it might be ready for a short, slow test ride just on my street.

I will have to wire the handlebar brake switch line to my new MC. But I noticed that when I depress the plunger on the existing switch, the tail light actually goes off. I haven't opened the housing yet to see if its something simple and obvious. 

If those bars are too embarrassing, you could ride with a bag over your head so nobody will know who it is.......

Double bag in case one blows off.

TexasKZ wrote:

If those bars are too embarrassing, you could ride with a bag over your head so nobody will know who it is.......

Double bag in case one blows off.
 

I would still want to keep my helmet handy.


I decided that the brake plunger must be depressed during normal use, then released when braking, in which case it works just fine. It only dims when I push the plunger, it doesn't go completely off. But I'm not going to investigate my theory because I'm sure someone knows.

 

Help me buy a brake line. My lines are cleaned and inspected and good enough for now, but the upper almost certainly will not work. My upper is 21 inches long but intended for an MC that ports toward the wheel. My new MC arriving tomorrow ports to the front. I looked at z1 and didn't really see anything that would work. I think with these schlonkey donkey bars I will need 22 or 23 inches, plus the correct facing fitting to avoid excess twist.