And finally, Wookie's 82 begins !

Hey Guy , Its been a while since looking at your project, Work of art, really it's a top build, just wanted to chime in on the hyd clutch as I have converted on my build , you had questioned about going bigger than 14mm on the clutch master cyl , I would not advise you will lose to much lever travel, and increase lever pressure, When I had ordered my ISR master cyl (Ordered from USA vendor) After a back and forth about the conversion I bought the 17.5 mm , figured he was the vendor and that what he suggested with my setup, I should have done more reach on ratios but I took his word , Oops , I can say at 17.5 The lever travel was so short Unusable friction zone way too far out  , Try taking off from a stop light with a clutch lever you can't feather at all either on or off , So to my dilemma I had to contact IRS directly and purchased the 14mm body smallest they have as the ISR is modular still cost me a lot of $$$ , Do your research on RATIOS , with the 14mm master it moved the friction zone in , very usable not as short as i can feather now . The throw on my clutch push rod is about 3.5 mm from memory but I can measure to confirm tomorrow, I am using an Oberon slave cyl , my hyd clutch is still a work in progress but very usable still needs a little more work, Currently I'm working on the exhaust sys changing over to a 2" baffle on a Titanium setup. Hope this gives some insight, Cheers   

Hey Guy, have one question what sprockets tooth count you are running for front and rear I assume 530 pitch? Also I had just look through your build again and its Beauty in attention to detail is top shelf, it's all the fine details, Cheers 

rich67 wrote:

Hey Guy, have one question what sprockets tooth count you are running for front and rear I assume 530 pitch? Also I had just look through your build again and its Beauty in attention to detail is top shelf, it's all the fine details, Cheers 

I am running 18/47 which according to gearing commander should give me 70mph at 4500 - I went with 18 on the front so the chain doesn’t eat the swingarm (same diameter as the stock 15T with a 630 chain)

rich67 wrote:

Hey Guy , Its been a while since looking at your project, Work of art, really it's a top build, just wanted to chime in on the hyd clutch as I have converted on my build , you had questioned about going bigger than 14mm on the clutch master cyl , I would not advise you will lose to much lever travel, and increase lever pressure, When I had ordered my ISR master cyl (Ordered from USA vendor) After a back and forth about the conversion I bought the 17.5 mm , figured he was the vendor and that what he suggested with my setup, I should have done more reach on ratios but I took his word , Oops , I can say at 17.5 The lever travel was so short Unusable friction zone way too far out  , Try taking off from a stop light with a clutch lever you can't feather at all either on or off , So to my dilemma I had to contact IRS directly and purchased the 14mm body smallest they have as the ISR is modular still cost me a lot of $$$ , Do your research on RATIOS , with the 14mm master it moved the friction zone in , very usable not as short as i can feather now . The throw on my clutch push rod is about 3.5 mm from memory but I can measure to confirm tomorrow, I am using an Oberon slave cyl , my hyd clutch is still a work in progress but very usable still needs a little more work, Currently I'm working on the exhaust sys changing over to a 2" baffle on a Titanium setup. Hope this gives some insight, Cheers   

Thanks Rich, really helpful info. What size slave are you using ? I started with a ZRX 14mm master and 35.5mm Honda slave (the bolt holes lined up perfectly with the trans cover screws ) I am led to believe the ZRX uses the same size slave but there is so much mis-information on the internet it's a "crap shoot" - with this set up the lever pressure was OK but I can't get enough travel on the slave to disengage the clutch (just under 2mm) I contacted a breaker advertising a GPZ900R slave and asked what size it was, he replied 30mm, I wasn't convinced so rather than order it I went there on Friday (huge place with hundreds of imported 70's & 80's bikes for sale, and also the home of Delkevic) and sure enough it was 33mm !!! I asked the guy why they had sent me wrong information to which he replied "the sales team use AI they wouldn't of measured it" (glad I never ordered it and waited 5 days for it to arrive) I decided while I was there to give myself some options so asked if they had a slave from a Ducati or Aprilia which I know are 29mm. Turns out they had a really clean Ducati ST4S unit, individually priced on their website it would have been £75 for both but since I had made a three hour round trip based on mis-information they did both for £40 so worth the trip. I now have options, I have almost completed the install of the Ducati unit but I suspect I will need to switch to the 12.7mm Honda master I have (that is what Ducati use) to take some of the weight out of the lever - Davido I fully understand why you gave up and went back to cable !!!! Two weeks ago I thought the clutch would simply be a 20 minute bleeding exercise !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's been "a minute" since I last posted but I have been beavering away in the background. Finally have the clutch sorted after way too much "fannying about" !!! I had gone down a rabbit hole trying to understand why it wasn't doing what I wanted, so main thing that sent me down the hole was a bad calculation on my part !!! 14mm master 28mm slave = 2.2:1 ratio "WRONG" when you calculate the volume of fluid displaced the ration is more like 4.99:1. So I couldn't understand why 11mm of master travel was only giving 2mm of pushrod travel Based on 2.2:1 I should have 5mm of travel when actually based on 4.99:1 the 2.2mm I was getting was all I was going to get !!!!!!! I then made an adjustable actuator for the master cylinder to remove the "slop" without changing the span on the lever, this combined with an aftermarket leaver that didn't foul the Kawa switch housing meant I now had close to 14mm of master travel which equates to around 2.7mm of pushrod travel which people who's opinion I trust tell me is plenty and shouldn't be an issue.(a word of warning, the amount of adjustment on the master actuator is small before it starts to block the relief port and stop the slave returning fully. 
Mounting the slave as I have to keep it behind the stack cover was tricky and involved converting one of the "through" holes to a threaded one so the mount would bole to it. To achieve this I pressed an insert into the counterbore then helicoiled through both the insert and the slave body. Also this mount set up had a little flex which I think over time would have cracked the slave body. I have made a plastic buffer which fits in the cover and presses hard against the back of the slave so no more flex. Other benefits of this are maximum pushrod travel and it doesn't creak like an old barn door when operated now (which it did when it flexed)
I have topped it off with a new stainless selector rod in place of the alloy Yamaha one which has a little short and flimsy As a bit of a bonus the Ducati slave I picked up is an aftermarket performance part (currently on Ebay for between $130 and $140 "used" so my $25 was a Wookie bargain













 

Front brakes are also sorted now, I fitted the "rebuilt" Suzuki units but neither bleed nipple would tighten so I drained the system again and replaced the 7mm with 8mm nipples, problem solved. I have also fitted the Honda Master so it's a matching pair with the clutch (Honda use it with twin 4 pots) there is a little more travel in the lever than I would like but it works and I expect the lever to improve once the new pads bed into the used rotors.

I have also resolved the breather issue now, the hose needs to serpentine around the airbox to get to the catch can which involves a bend tighter than 90 degrees behind the airbox. I tried a couple of dirfferent hoses but all collapsed on the bend, it was then I had a lightbulb moment - I have shoved the old master cylinder internal spring up the hose which now allows it bend back on itself without collapsing I have also made some spacer/bushes for the airbox mounts so the rubbers are now exactly 89mm from the intake boots which should mean there is no tension on the airbox rubbers (my OCD kicks in when I see boots that aren't straight)

Last job for the weekend was to get the carbs hung ready to clear tube. Since the lifting plate on my engine hoist is drilled to match the intake mounts it has doubled up as a carb stand nicely (a little shimming to make the spirit level happy) and also serves as a mounting point for the £5 lawnmower gas tank I picked up a while back. I am using "bulkhead mount" zip ties to hold the clear tubes as the fit nicely into the port in the back of the carb. That's it for now until the clear tube shows up (should be tomorrow)

Must admit, I had to read the first post a couple of times so I could understand it! Nothing to do with your explanation, just me trying to get my head around it. 
Anyway, looking good mate...nearly there!! 

As always, everything looks very neatly put together, Guy! It’s great that you found an acceptable and well-functioning solution to the clutch problem! We’re happy for you and can’t wait to see this beauty on the road...!!!

So that's another weekend of "ups and downs" over. On Friday I got the float heights set and the carbs back on the bike, I was half expecting issues with this as the float tangs where bent quite a bit when I stripped the carbs so I thought the float valves may be bad. When I built the carbs I set them straight and did the base measurements by bending the floats, when I put the fuel in they only need a small adjustment and closed with no issues so that was a result . Once the carbs where on I finished the breather and mounted the airbox (which was as tight as a virgin gerbil) On Saturday I focused on the throttle, it's a ZX14 unit converted to single cable which brought a couple of issues. First, as it's intended to run twin cables there is no "stop" in the throttle housing at the closed position. I sorted this with a pin in the housing secured with epoxy. The next issue was I needed to lose about 20mm in length on the inner cable (I could have ordered a custom cable but I like to "as much as possible" use "off the shelf" service parts that wear) On the throttle tube end I slotted the boss on the housing and used the "close" cable location which gave me about 10mm of the 20 I was looking for. I then made a stainless adaptor at the carb end which gave me the other 10mm. This now has a little bit of slack until the carbs are set up but I have all of the factory adjustment in the cable still.










 

Awesome work Guy, getting really close now.
Rich.