And finally, Wookie's 82 begins !

Sorry missed the word 'use' out. Many of my photos have a tobaaco packet in view

moizeau wrote:

Sorry missed the word 'use' out. Many of my photos have a tobaaco packet in view

I get it now (wasn't familiar with the "go/no go" term )  That's actually my ashtray in the pic (it's ceramic)

Well this old girl is still throwing me "curve balls" !! I am using a set of 72mm pistons that Warren sorted me out with (thanks again). At the weekend I was cleaning parts ready to start assembly and I noticed that one of the pistons didn't have any cut-outs to release the clips III All then numbers underneath are the same and in every other way all four are identical so "go figure" Fortunately I have a 4mm end mill so it wasn't too big a hassle to rectify tonight after work. Onwards and upwards

And just when you thought it was safe to go outside again.......

It's been a couple of weeks since my last post but I have been busy with my motor, first was to "Cerekote" the cylinders then I cracked on with the bottom end while the paint cured on the block. Once the cases where together I decided to build up the shift mechanism, speed sensor and the hydraulic clutch conversion. With the clutch slave cylinder I had to reverse the intake and the bleed nipple position (when the holes in the slave cylinder lined up with three of the trans cover screws it was upside down so would have been near impossible to bleed) I made an adaptor a while back to convert the original intake to a 7mm bleed nipple but the concern I had was that the adaptor would loosen when opening the bleed nipple. I decided to install it with red loctite and then pegged it with a 2mm roll pin so it should stay put hopefully !!
When it came to fitting the cylinder I decided to install the pistons in the block first (main reason was I believe it's easier than wrestling with the block single handed and reduces the risk of damaging rings and the base gasket (especially as with a +2.5mm overbore there isn't much of the taper left on the bottom of the liners) Now with a shell bearing crank this is easy as you can drop the pistons and rods into the block, bolt it down then flip it over and drop the crank in. With a roller crank it was a PITA !! I put the index rod in, lowered the block onto the middle four studs (I fitted the rest once all the pistons were connected) until it rested on the indexing rod then used a jig I made to lift the cylinder slightly. The middle two where tricky but the outer two were quite straightforward, so then it was just a case of dropping the studs in and pulling the block down. Easy eh !!!!!!














 

As ever: Very good job !!! Go ahead with all your enthusiasm, ideas and energy!!!

Great work as always Guy, looking forward to seeing the next part of assembly.
Rich.6

Mrs Wookie had plans yesterday not not got a huge amount done this weekend. I like to finish one bit before moving on so I have concentrated on wrapping up the bottom end. First was to check the accuracy of the factory TDC and therefore timing marks, as expected (due to manufacturing tolerances) the factory marks are "retarded" 3 degrees so first off I had added new marks in the correct spot. This then meant removing some material from the left side of the rotor to ensure the retarded ignition is corrected. I have added my cooler take off and ZZR/ZXR ratchet tensioner. I also had to add a couple of role pins in the ignition housing as one of the lugs to secure the cables was broken off (2nd hand part)  So that's pretty much it for now, I will move onto the head next weekend (seats are cut and valves tipped but I want to do some light porting and pull the oil gallery plugs) I have also had a moment of extravagance and splashed out on a "Joker Machine" billet oil pressure gauge mount 
PS: I'm glad I took the time to counterbore the side covers for the bolts, I think it looks great now it's assembled