TOPIC:

Just keep in mind you will have less stem penetrating the upper clamp. If I’m thinking this through correctly lol 

Yeah, there should still be easily enough, though. I'm pretty sure the space at the bottom is just putting things back to where they should be - then it's down to whether I put a spacer in the top end as well (may be an issue with the stem length into the top triple) or shorten the ears or dampers. 

How far does the stem usually go into the top triple? Or rather, how much space is there between the top of the triple and the top of the stem?

See last photo I posted. After install the upper sits firm against the stem nut. Going off memory the stem sits about 2-4 mm below the top of the upper clamp before tightening the stem nut. 

Here is install sequence 

 

Tightened up the steering stem nut properly today and I can easily put a 2mm spacer under the bottom bearing. With get on the lathe tomorrow and sort this whole mess out.

I have another question for those of you with the early KZ's: Should I swap out the regulator and rectifier for a single unit? How prone to failure are they? Basically, I was planning on leaving everything in it's original condition, but with the electrics I would consider some upgrades and just put the original stuff on the shelf. I was thinking of going with a single unit reg/rec and maybe swapping out the points for a Dyna S or similar.

All but the purest and museum rivet counter would appreciate an electrical upgrade. I can not see it being anything but a bonus. I have had great luck with the Dyna S. Nessism is a smart guy and he highly recommends the SH775 rectifier regulator. RickH did a conversion and Did a nice job. 

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Tightened up the steering stem nut properly today and I can easily put a 2mm spacer under the bottom bearing. With get on the lathe tomorrow and sort this whole mess out.

I have another question for those of you with the early KZ's: Should I swap out the regulator and rectifier for a single unit? How prone to failure are they? Basically, I was planning on leaving everything in it's original condition, but with the electrics I would consider some upgrades and just put the original stuff on the shelf. I was thinking of going with a single unit reg/rec and maybe swapping out the points for a Dyna S or similar.

Would it not be easier to put the spacer between the top nut and top tree rather than taking the lower bearing back off? (would have the same effect)

Thanks, I have one of these on the shelf: www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR10-Ka...000A-A1.html#SID=439

I assume the hole spacing will match the regulator but I'll check tomorrow. I was thinking of getting an electronic ignition from fourever-classic here in Germany. They are a bit cheaper than the dyna and any problems will be easier to sort out. I have a Dyna S for the restomod but I thought I might buy local this time.

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Would it not be easier to put the spacer between the top nut and top tree rather than taking the lower bearing back off? (would have the same effect)

When I checked today the steering stops on the bottom triple don't sit flush on the pin - they catch on the weld at the top. I need a couple of mm's to bring them down so I can engage the steering lock properly.

That's unfortunate, easy is good 

Any idea how the steering stem/clamp got out of spec and ends up sitting higher?

I think it probably happened when the frame was straightened and the guy reworked the bearing surfaces - he probably milled out a bit too much for the bottom race. 

I made a spacer yesterday and put everything back together. The spacer was 2.3mm and I probably should have taken a bit more off. The steering stops line up but the steering lock only just catches (it's OK, but may slip with enough force). I made a second spacer (1.5mm) that I can put in if need be. Although I can't get the bottom bearing off without destroying it and I don't want to buy another set. I have another bearing that I can measure so I may just be able to get the bottom bearing.

With the 2.3mm spacer I have about 4mm between the top of the stem and the top of the triple clamp, that gives me 17mm of stem in the clamp (same as the 750, so should be fine). With a spacer under the top clamp (so the headlight mounting stack fits) I have 6mm to the top of the stem and 15mm overlap. Not really happy with that number.
I have stareted tracking down OEM parts so I can see if they fit better. I'll work on something else until I've found all the parts.. 

My "fix" for the steering lock so I can get past the MOT:

 


With and without the spacer under the top clamp:

 

 

Hi Calum, you seem to be disappearing down a rabbit hole with what should be a fairly "straightforward" assembly. I have been looking through your thread and have found someting I think would be worth checking. From what I can see the bearing sizes areUpper 30x48x14Lower 30x52x17You mention on page 6 that the inner roller cage appears to sit 7-8mm too deep in the outer race. This does not sound at all right to me (I have never seen a tapered bearing sit this way)Is it possible that the kit you have been supplied has come with 2 top inner cages (would fit the stem the same as the ID of both bearings is 30mm) the smaller diameter and smaller depth of the top bearing would explain why your roller cage is sitting so deep in the bottom and giving you these problems. Please don't be insulted by the following suggestion as I am just trying to help - given the similarity in the size of top and bottom bearing, is it possible that you have accidentally got the top and bottom inner cages the wrong way round?If the sizes above are correct the bottom bearing is available separately from a decent bearing supplier (see below)