TOPIC:

Also, what wire are you using to connect the ignition switch to the main harness. Are you using the wires from the old ignition switch? I know it's hard to get photos in that area, but a good photo or two might solve mysteries.

Note there are two white wires with black stripes going to the ignition switch area. They should not get mixed up, or that could create some problems. If you cut the main harness wires to run jumpers to the switch, it could be easy to mix up the two similar wires.

It's a strange set of symptoms you have, so I'm just trying to think up possibilities, no matter how remote.

I can't tell in the photo of the new switch, but is there a way to tell which screw is which?

No I’m not using the lid ignition switch wires. I wanted to keep that as stock as possible.

Tomorrow I’ll see what switching the two white wires does. And I’ll also see what happens when I remove the blue and orange wire does.


Thanks!

Honestly I don’t see why changing the white wires will do anything. They both go to the same place. I may reconnect the blue and orange wire and reconnect wire I removed.

Thanks!

JohnLuke wrote: Honestly I don’t see why changing the white wires will do anything. They both go to the same place. I may reconnect the blue and orange wire and reconnect wire I removed.

Thanks!

They do not go to the same place. Please look at my more recent diagram. There are three white wires according to the factory diagram. Two of them have black stripes. Those two with stripes do not go to the same place.

But that is a secondary concern. I wouldn't swap them yet.

I was asking for confirmation on what the labels look like on the new ignition switch because your symptoms indicate you may have the new ignition switch wired wrong, or the labels are wrong, or the switch is internally constructed differently from advertised. This is not a big issue, it's just about moving some wires around. But I need a photo or some response about it in order to go any further with it.

Your symptoms indicate you might have the battery wired to ACC, lights wired to BATT and ignition wired to IGN (which is not how it should be wired to do what you want).

The ignition dying from hi-beams should be un-related to the ignition switch, but is an issue regarding wiring of the rest of the bike.

But if you did not cut the blue-orange wire, did you at least unplug the reserve lighting unit? That thing has a lot of internal connections which could cause strange behavior (although it shouldn't kill the ignition unless there is some other wiring problem).

If you did not cut the blue-orange wire, did you cut the blue-yellow wire to get the lights working? And did you buy new wire, then, to connect the new ignition switch.

I know a photo is a pain to get, but it saves so much time and eliminates so many questions.

Here are some photos. Hope this helps you out. Still not positive why it’s doing this. Why would the high beams cut the power to the coils.

Ok, so in this photo, how did you know which screw to put each wire on? I don't see any markings on the switch to indicate BAT, IGN, and ACC?




I see a little manufacture mark with maybe an "os" or "u s" in it. Let's use that as a reference.
Try this next arrangement..

Unfortunately that didn’t work. It ran correctly on IGN but ACC has no power at all.

Also it appears to me that the letters are SD.

JohnLuke wrote: Unfortunately that didn’t work. It ran correctly on IGN but ACC has no power at all.

Also it appears to me that the letters are SD.

Then there is something wrong with that switch. Regardless of how it is wired, all three screws must be connected together at one of the switch positions. Otherwise you could drive your car or listen to the radio, but not both.

Do you actually see stampings or some other markings for IGN, BAT, and ACC?

Let me get this right, the way we wired it I’m supposed to be able to run/ have the engine running with the lights off on ACC. Right?

So for some reason I can get the bike to run on IGN with the lights on because of the way we some of the wiring on other left hand control unit. And also I should have access to the electrical on ACC but not ignition or naw?

Thanks!

Okay. I got the ignition switch wired the way I had it in my first photo. I was curious to see what would when I plugged in the RLD and all the other relays and it now starts on ACC but as soon as you turn the high beams on it stalls. Then it will start on high beams but when you switch to low beam it stalls again. I’ll try get a photo tomorrow but is there a way I can get ride of all those chunky relays boxes?

Thanks

JohnLuke wrote: Okay. I got the ignition switch wired the way I had it in my first photo. I was curious to see what would when I plugged in the RLD and all the other relays and it now starts on ACC but as soon as you turn the high beams on it stalls. Then it will start on high beams but when you switch to low beam it stalls again. I’ll try get a photo tomorrow but is there a way I can get ride of all those chunky relays boxes?

Thanks

Ok, then the symptoms you describe have changed (I suspected they would). Earlier you said it would not re-start on high-beams, but now you say it will, correct?
I know that it may not sound like a major difference, but it makes a huge difference in the troubleshooting.

So when you switch a headlight filament on, it is initially a dead short until the filament heats up and creates resistance. Normally, a bike with a good battery and good electrical system won't die from switching on a headlight. However, on a bike running without a battery or a really weak battery and/or really weak charging system, along with other wiring issuesit is very common for the bike to stall at idle, while the headlight filament is switched on. Same goes for when switching from hi to low or low to hi.

That is why I mentioned very early on in the troubleshooting about revving the bike a bit before switching the high-beam switch or the headlight option. So that is something to try. Give the bike a rev, and switch the hi-lo switch before the RPMs come down to idle.

Are you running with a battery? Or jump starting from another battery? Have you put any miles on this bike before the ignition switch swap, or is it a new project for you?

You may want to look into the main fuse box and see if anything looks burn or melted in there, and also see if it looks like a previous owner has done any creative-wiring in there.

Yes, you can get rid of almost all of the relays if you want to eliminate things like the hazards, reserve-lighting, brake-warning, auto cancelling turn signals, etc.
Just removing the relays doesn't really clean anything up until you simplify the wiring.

When you take off the headlight, the bike will barf out wires like a bad spaghetti lunch. A lot of that can be removed with a bare-bones re-wire, but once you go down that route, it can be a long project for a novice... like days or weeks. You need good soldering, looming, crimping skills to really do it right.

So when I say it will restart on high beam it does but it pops and cracks as though it’s skipping or whatever.i kinda want to go back to square one. See how that works.