TOPIC:

I would think it best to keep it as stock as possible. But it would be nice to be able to run it on ACC with the headlight out. And also be able to run it with the headlight on and on Ignition. Ya feel me?

JohnLuke wrote: I would think it best to keep it as stock as possible. But it would be nice to be able to run it on ACC with the headlight out. And also be able to run it with the headlight on and on Ignition. Ya feel me?

Yes, but I need to know if you want to keep the reserve lighting unit or not. That will determine where you tap into the lighting circuit.
You might be able to test and see if the reserve unit is even working. If you can find a place to disconnect the red/black wire for the high beam. then switch the light switch to high beam. If the low beam stays on, then the reserve lighting is working. If it goes out, then the reserve lighting unit is not working.
You will also have to check it using the red/yellow wire and switching the dimmer to low beam (with red/black wire restored).

Also, I need to see the wire colors up close for the ignition switch on the Zn diagram. My Kz diagram shows the single brown connecting to another single brown.

Your diagram shows it connecting to a white/black wire or is the brown/white?

Did you happen to notice on the actual bike whether the single brown wire connected to a white/brown or white/black?

Now that I think about it, it would be nice to get rid of the reserve lighting device to make room in the battery box for stuff. So let just get rid of it for now.

It’s a white and black wire the brown is connected to.

I found a 1983 Kz750N2 Spectre diagram online by a KZR member and am using that to make this image. You can check the wire colors against your diagram, but The only two wires you are really concerned with on the handlebar control are the BLU/ORG and BLU/YEL. (Second color denotes the stripe.) Kawasaki has pretty much always been consistent on color of those two reserve-lighting wires, so it probably does not matter which diagram I use.

You just cut the BLU/ORG wire and leave it.
Then cut the BLU/YEL wire and run a jumper from that to the ignition switch.

The headlights will only be protected by the main fuse now. If the headlight shorts out for some reason, it will blow the main fuse and kill the bike. Just replace the fuse with the spare and run in ACC position to run the bike without headlights.

If you really want, you could put an inline fuse in the BLU/YEL wire. Use a 10 amp fuse and make sure it is easily apparent what it is for. I'd probably just go commando and run it without the fuse.

So now it runs with the light on!!!! Yay. I took it on a 20-25 minute ride. Trying my best to very the throttle because of the break in period. Everything seems to be running right except cylinder 1 exhaust valve seal is leaking. I’ll replace it Saturday hopefully. I’ve seen some people do it with the head on. I’m gonna give that a shot. But two things. Right now it runs with the light on on the on position. The ACC position runs the lights but the bike won’t crank.

Second of all it only runs on low beam. As soon as I switch to high beam the bike cuts off. Not sure what’s going on.

Thanks for the awesome help so far. Wouldn’t be able to do it without you.

A valve stem seal can be changed with the piston on TDC but you need the right spring commpressor tool.
I use a spring commpressor tool for the Volkswagen 8 valve engine to do the job with the head on the bike/car.






Cheap all in one spring commpressor tool



www.amazon.de/Ventilfederspanner-Ventils...37GBVA6BYT6TZ4CFHF4A

Oh okay, thanks these are great. Anyone have any idea why the bike shuts off when I switch the high beams on?

Thanks!

JohnLuke wrote: ... But two things. Right now it runs with the light on on the on position. The ACC position runs the lights but the bike won’t crank.

Second of all it only runs on low beam. As soon as I switch to high beam the bike cuts off. Not sure what’s going on...

That's all very strange. It sounds like you have the lights connected to the ACC terminal and everything else connected to the IGN terminal. That would explain the lights-on without engine running in the ACC-only position.

Lights should be connected to the terminal that is powered up only when the key is in the Ignition position.
The ignition and everything else is connected as Accessory.
This is counter-intuitive, but that's the only way to do it without adding another switch.

The high-beam switch should not kill the ignition unless it blows a fuse.
Does the high-beam actually light up?
A lost ground connection can cause strange things to happen as well.
Did you cut the Blue/Orange wire at the right place?
Does the behavior change if you remove the reserve-lighting unit?

First get the ignition switch working properly with low beam, Then remove the blue/yellow wire from the IGN terminal and see if the high beam switch kills the motor (The headlight should not work at all, if it does, that is a clue).

I got the ignition stuff all squared away. Now it runs with the lights on on the ON position. And when I switch it to ACC the lights turn off but the bike still won’t crank in the ACC position.

And yes the high beam does turn on but the bike shuts off as soon as the high beams are tuned on.

Thanks!

Will the bike re-start while the high beams are on?

No, it doesn’t. It seems like it’s loosing power to the coils.