TOPIC:

did you try a different igniter before using the abs converter?

I am using a DYNA III ignition. It´s different to your igniter unit.
But testing a spare igniter unit is a good idea to solve your problem.

got a spare igniter today. still have the jumpy tach and rough running at 2-4k. smooths out a bit with an adjustment of the tps, but something seems odd. when i adjust it clockwise, it increases the idle speed. and when i go ccw, it slows. that is backwards from the document floating around about adjusting it without the factory tester.
if somebody has access to look at the wiring of their tps and note which color wire goes where, i would appreciate it.
in the german manual, the sequence from left to right is bl/w, bl/r, bl/o. in the us manual, it is bl/o, bl/w, bl/r.
mine is bl/r, bl/w, bl/o.
if i do the german sequence, it runs uncontrollably rich.
i irc, running the us sequence also runs rich, just not as bad as the german sequence.

ned37, tomorrow i will lift my lazy ass into my basemant and dig for my TPS connector wiring harness. I have two of them.
Any bl/w, bl/r, bl/o. colour combination should do the Job.

Any bl/w, bl/r, bl/o. colour combination should do the Job.

????

the saga continues. bought a couple chinese coils (one at a time in case they were bogus). after changing the 1-4, a run around the block seemed promising until the end when it warmed up, then back to the missing / jumping. i replaced the 2-3 and it's back to bad.
yesterday i tried to see a voltage signal to or from the tps to the controller (pins 5, 11, and 17). using volts, all i see between leads and leads to ground is a fleeting voltage which goes to zero quickly.
i reread the resistance values from the tps at the controller connector and they are right on spec from idle to max. but rolling the throttle slowly there may be a glitch off idle between bl-w and bl-or about 1.8k ohms. i say "may be" because even tho i have duplicated it, it is not consistant every time, but is located about where my jumpy tach starts. the problem is almost certainly related to throttle position.
this bike has 55000 hard miles on it and i know the tps can wear, but finding one to replace it with seems very difficult.
scirocco, is it time to try an abs converter?

A TPS needs a clear signal without any gliches or value drops. If so he has to be replaced with a better working TPS.
The ABS converter is an Signal amplifier that necessary need a clean signal to work properly.
If you are not able to get a good TPS i will give you one of my spare parts TPS.
I testing TPS divices with an analog multimeter for a better value/drops/glitches display.

if i understand how the abs converter works, i see how it wouldn't help.."garbage in, garbage out" as they say.
don't worry about my finding a tps, i'll find one sooner or later (or a donor kz1000 set of carbs to hold me over) . after all, it's a project.
the first time i tested the tps, i used an analog meter that was old when i got it in 1965 but is still in calibration. problem is the most sensitive range is x100. using a dvm, i would try to roll the throttle so that it would go digit by digit and the change was about 50k ohms around 1.8.
the only thing i can't explain is the noise that makes the tach jump.

As i say before the abs converter amplify a 0,10 - 1,00 Volts sqware wave Signal (from one ignition pic-up) to a 12 Volts sqware wave Signal for the tach.
In my opinion a modern bike TPS divice should do the same work (values) like the Kawasaki GPZ1100.
A throttle body of a 50 ccm APRILLIA Scooter, he useses the same simpleTechnology.

funny you should mention that, when i was searching for tps, i saw a pic of a tps from a kawi atv that looked VERY similar, maybe next time i'm out in the woods on my husky, i'll borrow one.

I have a few tps hanging around . What numbers are on it ? The ones I have are A71-000001 , A71-000000 , A 71-000002

mine is an A71-000001.
do you want to deal on private message?