TOPIC:

Give it a try. The TPS device OHM values are independent of the wiring.
Both wiring diagrams shows different BL/W - BL/R Connections on the TPS pin out.

i connected the tps as per the us manual drawing and again, ran like crap. so i am left with (l-r) b/r-b/w-b/o. it starts and runs from cold (80f) with a blubbering (rich) idle (warmed up,no blubber), riding it has it jerking with the tach jumping from 2k -4k rpm, so casual cruise is out of the question. runs great above 4k.
if the tach is jumping and the engine missing, it should be coil related?? or perhaps the igniter? but it runs great when you pin the throttle.????
as a side note, i pulled the tps and noted an oily substance inside, looking thru the hole where the throttle shaft goes thru. i gave it a good bath with contact cleaner and dried it out. no difference.

Here you will find some trouble shoot guides for the DFI System plus some personal notes.
Files are to big for an upload here.

www99.zippyshare.com/v/qfV5oNmO/file.html

ned37 wrote:
if the tach is jumping and the engine missing, it should be coil related?? or perhaps the igniter?

If the tach is jumping someting is wrong. The DFI control unit has a analog wave to digital retangular wave converter .
If the Input rev impulse signal is wrong the control unit translate the wrong injetion values.
Check the pickup signals for Drops or something like this ...,don´t ask how do i know this..

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/607690-de...hometer?limitstart=0


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i'm going to ask anyhow...what caused your drops?

ned37 wrote:
i'm going to ask anyhow...what caused your drops?

The ignition signal (picup) at the ignitor unit was very noisy and the sinus wave form was not clear to detect correctly.
The correct wave form was disturbed by the ignition eletronic unit and dwel Timing.
So far no clean positiv/negativ analog wave form from begin-/end+ could be could be detect/convert right for the rev meter or digital rev unit at a specific frequency..
Sorry for my novice explanations but my english knowledge end here, to difficult to translate right for me...

wish i still had an oscilloscope.

Any Progress to your Problem??
A JYE Tech DSO138 DIY Digital Oszilloskop for less than 20 Euro do the Job.

scirocco: thanks for the tech info. it's appreciated.
i have gone thru most of the connectors aggressively with contact cleaner and abrasive, and it is better, but still the tach still jumps and engine misses intermittently
around 3k rpm.
at least now i have a steady idle.
i'll go thru the checks as per the tech info and try to pin down the source of the errata.

just saw your scope info. i'll look into it.

i used an oscilloscope to look at my ignition signals and found the pickup signal to be nice and clean. not so much when i look at the igniter to coils. i suspect the igniter. i have cleaned all the connectors twice (all excecpt the back of the fuse box) and can't get rid of the blubbering idle and jumpy tach. the igniter feeds the fi control unit and prob determines when the injectors fire and i would guess a noisy signal would make it run rich, which is what is happening. anybody have a thought about this?
another question: how long should fuel pressure hold in the system after shutdown? mine drops gradually so that overnight it is less than 5psi.

How many Voltage Output you got on the pickups, (0,50 - 0,80 Volts)?
Your symtoms are looking the same as i have to fight for a stable tach Signal. i have to bypass with a (ABS) signal converter to get
a clear and noisy free 12 Volts square wave Signal for my tach.




The fuel pressure need to hold several hours to prevent steam bubbles in the hot fuel pressures lines, (hot start issues).
There should be a one-way valve in the fuel pump to hold up the fuel pressure.