TOPIC:

So I put a 1982 kz550 engine in a lawn mower and it’s time to wire it. So I got a basic diagram online and I can’t seem to get spark. The pulser coils check out with (530 ohms each) and I got power to the both connectors of the coil but no spark. The coils are grounded. Could it be my ic ignitor? How do I test that?

Buys wrote:

So I put a 1982 kz550 engine in a lawn mower and it’s time to wire it. So I got a basic diagram online and I can’t seem to get spark. The pulser coils check out with (530 ohms each) and I got power to the both connectors of the coil but no spark. The coils are grounded. Could it be my ic ignitor? How do I test that?

That diagram does not look right.

There should be no green/yellow wire coming from the igniter. It should be plain green.
The plain green wire should go to the 2/3 coil's negative terminal
The black/yellow wire is ground. It should NOT go directly to a coil. It should go to ground.
The solid black wire is NOT ground. It should go to the 1/4 coil's negative terminal.

Also, the alternator on an 82 550 should have 3 yellow wires going directly to the reg/rec.
The reg/rec should have a brown wire which gets switched 12v power from the ignition switch whenever the bike is switched on. That is the solid yellow wire from the ignition switch on your diagram.

The ignition switch is kind of a mystery. I can't read the labels, but the yellow wire should be connected to the ignition terminal, and the red/yellow wire should be connected to the start position terminal.

Do I need the regulator to get spark? Also the terminals on the coil
Are un marked (aftermarket) so how do I know which side is which? I looked at an actual diagram and switched the solid black one to the coil and the black and yellow one to the ground so I have that done. But I’ll try the regulator wiring later. Thank you for your help

Buys wrote: Do I need the regulator to get spark? Also the terminals on the coil
Are un marked (aftermarket) so how do I know which side is which? I looked at an actual diagram and switched the solid black one to the coil and the black and yellow one to the ground so I have that done. But I’ll try the regulator wiring later. Thank you for your help

You don't need the regulator to run the motor, but if you run it with the regulator connected incorrectly you can burn out the ignitor or coils. The ignition, by itself, can run a long time on just the battery.

The stock coils were marked + and -, but it probably doesn't matter which terminals are which. Aftermarket ones are often not marked.

how do I test to see if my ignitor is bad?

Does anyone have the right simplified diagram?

bare bones for mattylight. KZR topic w simplified wiring diagrams by loudhvx. see pages 11-21.
There's a 550C wiring diagram on pg 16. also, for crimping stuff see pg 21.
note: a bunch of the diagrams are no longer available. most from pages 1-10 are gone. But from pg 11-on many are still there.

For a manual & stock wiring diagrams. see links in loudhvx's signature in any of his replies.

Thank you. I’ll give it a try tonight and let you know

Buys wrote: how do I test to see if my ignitor is bad?

Since you are doing the wiring from scratch, and the wiring is simplified, the easiest way is to test is to wire it up and see if it sparks.
You can just tap a screwdriver to the center of the pickups and see if there is spark without cranking the motor. (This is described in the manual.)

We've discussed the proper wiring for the igniter above. All you need is a good battery to test it.

To test for sparks, take all four plugs out and make sure they are laying on the engine. Make sure all plug wires are connected so the there is a complete path for the spark. If you leave a plug wire unconnected, you can damage the igniter or the coil.

So I Tried the screwdriver pulser coil try and I didn’t get spark to any of them. I have 12 volts at the battery. I have positive power to both terminals on the coil all the time( when the key is on) Is that normal? I have positive power from both the igniter wires and the wires coming from the battery. Is that normal?

Buys wrote: So I Tried the screwdriver pulser coil try and I didn’t get spark to any of them. I have 12 volts at the battery. I have positive power to both terminals on the coil all the time( when the key is on) Is that normal? I have positive power from both the igniter wires and the wires coming from the battery. Is that normal?

The igniter has eight wires. Four big wires and four small wires.
The small wires go to the pickups.
The big red (or yellow) wire should be 12v.
The big black/yellow wire is ground. It should have 0 volts on it.
The big black wire is the 1-4 coil wire. It should have 12v on it most of the time. It will briefly have low voltage on it just before the 1-4 coil fires.
The big green wire is the 2-3 coil wire. It should have 12v on it most of the time. It will briefly have low voltage on it just before the 2-3 coil fires.
The coils will have 12 on both small wires most of the time.
The yellow wire to the coils on your diagram should have 12v all the time.
The green or black coil wire will act as described above.

When you tap the pickup is when the green or black wire will momentarily drop to a lower voltage, but it is so brief, you can't measure the actual value with a voltmeter. You would need an oscilloscope to measure it precisely, but it will be somewhere near 1 volt.

So if I have the proper power to the coils what makes them not actually “fire” or spark