TOPIC:

I have a problem and can't seem to figure it out. I pulled the carbs on my bike. Now that I have them back in I have a hose that I can't seem to find a home for. I have Mikuni carbs and the hose runs between the carbs and is not the fuel line fron the petcock. Can anyone tell me where this goes?

Hi Ag3NT, If you have the stock carbs (mikuni BS34)and tank the hose you are talking about could either be the overflow hose (on mine it was a long clear plastic hose) that gets routed back over the swing arm and doesn't get connected to anything. The other alternative is that it could be the vacume hose that gets attached to the vacume side of the petcock. Since it's comming from between the carbs, it's probably the overflow hose.
Ron

Thanks Ron, It is the overflow tube. I hope my service manual gets here soon. This all started with a K&N drop in filter. I got a KA-0750 which according to K&N is the right filter but it is too tall to fit in the airbox.

Post edited by: Ag3NT, at: 2006/11/27 08:50

Glad I could help, good luck.
Ron

Now my bike doesn't start consistently. I cleaned the air filter and put everything back together. When I try to start it after a little bit I can see gas leaking from the left carb (I'm thinking a stuck needle). I have good spark and compression. Very little gas gets into the engine the plugs are slightly damp with gas. The last few times in order to get it to start I had to have full throttle. Can anyone help me out here?

Does anyone have the service manual diagrams for the carbs?

Post edited by: Ag3NT, at: 2006/12/07 13:57

Hi Ron, what bike are we working on?
When you get a chance, update your sig to show what bike(s) you have. Makes it easier for us not to guess:P

regards, Ray

OOPS, didn't see the KZ750M1 above your post:blush: ...(best Gilda Radner impression NEVR MIND!thank you:pinch: )

Post edited by: SpokeWheel650B, at: 2006/12/07 14:19

Ag3NT wrote:

... can see gas leaking from the left carb (I'm thinking a stuck needle)

If the float is sticking, you might be able to free it by tapping on the float bowl with a plastic hammer or other tool.

Does anyone have the service manual diagrams for the carbs?

Might search Kawasaki.com but if difficult to navigate, just post the year and model designation of your bike so we can locate and post a copy of the carb parts diagram.

I tried tapping it last night and didn't notice as much leakage this morning. The bike is an 82 KZ750 M1 CSR. I have the diagrams from Kawasaki.com and they leave a lot to be desired. I was hoping that the service manual would be more in depth.

I am guessing this is the 4 cylinder 750? Are the carburetors Keihin or Mikuni? Oh, anyway, I doubt the float is sticking. Sticking normally occurs if a float is badly bent and sticks to the top of the bowl chamber or on the float gasket. Neither the CV34s or Mik BS34s are stickers generally. Neither has an overflow tube, like earlier VM carbs so any crud betwixt the float needle and seat will cause drooling. After you clean carbs, this is the most likely time for the crud to be there (believe it or not). This is why little screens are installed on the pickup end of each seat (on the BS34). Did you set the service fuel level? You could have a misadjusted float. Also, on the Mik BS34s, the oring around the seat needs to be in decent shape or you can get gas dumping in that way as well. The Keihins have pressed in seats and the don't leak. Last, the cylinder may not be firing if you are drooling while the bike is running. Engine vacuum will still be pulling gas through but if there is no spark, it will leak gas; into the airbox and combustion chamber.

Nope she is a two cylinder. I think the carbs are BS34s not sure though. They do have an overflow tube between the carbs. I haven't cleaned these carbs yet just the air filter. It looks to me like not enough gas is getting into the engine to fire. If that is it I'm not sure how to fix it.

Looks like a least some of the problem is in the boots. Both sides of the carb (engine and air box) leak. I adjusted the engine side and retightened the clamps. It seemed to help at least she starts now. The next problem appears to be the idle. The idle set screw is backed out all the way, it won't idle on it's own this way. If I push on the idle set screw or screw it in the littlest bit the bike climbs up to 4k rpms and stays there.

I would get new boots before proceeding. Any air leak there can hole a piston. If the idle stop screw is all the way out, and you get too high an idle with it screwed in any, then take the carbs off. Loosen the sync adjust nut and screw the idle stop in a bit till it pushes the bellcrank a tad. You will see the butterflies open. Try and use the sync screw to close them down as much as possible and get the butterfly openings even as best you can. Now see if turning the idle stop screw will shut both butterflies at the same time. If not, the assembly needs some tweeking. You can try loosening the assembly's two sets of mount bolts where they mount to the two rails and then try getting the butterflies to shut together again. It may also be helpful to remove the butterflies and their actuation rods and clean those up and lube them a bit with grease before reinstalling. This involves removing the two very small screws that retain each butterfly. MAKE SURE you use a #1 phillips screwdriver and don't strip the heads. You can then open the throttle by hand and the edge of the butterfly will face you and can be pulled out. At that point, the assembly will need to be split and the actuating arms can be removed. There are circlips at the ends holding them in.