kz1000 float level setting driving me nuts

Got my kz1000 on its first ride today since replacing the front end and also replaced the exhaust with a 4-1. It wasnt running as good so I took the carbs out and checked the float levels.

I knew to check the float level because the paper gasket was slowly leaking fuel and I assumed the fuel was sitting above the gasket, which it was. 

Well its been like 4 hours and I cant get them set right!!! I put the float height to 18.6mm then the fuel level is sitting at the mating surfaces when it should be 3mm ±1mm below the carb body. So id set the again and raise the float height to 19mm or 20mm then the fuel level might go UP or even on the carbs that I didnt touch would change for no reason. I do have the carbs sitting level on my bench. Could someone help me out? I am literally going to wait until another day to take a stab back at it.

What's the condition of the float valves?  Are they stock OEM, or aftermarket.  

Real deal Mikuni parts are best, and Keyster are a decent alternative.  Everything else is a crapshoot.

I've dealt with the problem you are experiencing before; no matter how high you set the floats, the fuel level refuses to drop.  It can be very frustrating.

Nessism wrote:

What's the condition of the float valves?  Are they stock OEM, or aftermarket.  

Real deal Mikuni parts are best, and Keyster are a decent alternative.  Everything else is a crapshoot.

I've dealt with the problem you are experiencing before; no matter how high you set the floats, the fuel level refuses to drop.  It can be very frustrating.

That will be my next challenge after the hydraulic issues are resolved !!!!!!

   The old brass frame / black bulb floats were sorta crude compared with modern floats. Place all 4 of your floats side-by-side and you may see that they're not all precisely identical.  Especially if the frame is even slightly twisted at the float ends, fuel level can be quite variable.  Doesn't take much.  Physical setting with a ruler or float gauge won't be very accurate +/- mm fuel level.

Re: variable fuel level:
   Weigh each float on a sensitive scale.  If any are significantly heavier, they've sprung an internal leak in the bulb.
   Make sure the floats are absolutely free to swing smoothly thorough their arc of travel under their own weight when the carb is slowly tilted.
   Soak the needles in carb cleaner, but don't mix them between carb bodies if you intend to re-use them; make sure they each go into the carbs they came from.  Work the tiny spring-loaded pin at the float end of the needle in & out while submerged to flood the spring cavity & expel the air bubbles.  After soaking, hold the needle tip-up, and tap that pin on a paper towel to expel the carb cleaner and any crud that was loosened from within the spring cavity.
   If the needle tip has a groove worn in it that can be felt easily with a fingernail, replace it and the needle seat.  If a groove-looking feature can be seen but not felt, it's usually good to return to service.
   Clean the seat with a Q-tip and carb cleaner.  Ensure no fibers are left behind.  New needle seats are available with different bores, denoted by x.x digits, such as 2.0.  Make sure new seats are of the same bore as the old ones.  Nessim's advice to use only Mikuni or Keyster parts is spot on.

   We wrote an article some time ago re: a method to set floats off the bike using clear glass vessel(s) in lieu of a clear tube and, a safer alternate fluid to use instead of gasoline if working indoors.  It may be of help if your rack is off the bike.
www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/61368...g-fuel-level?start=0

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

alternate method. fab up a carb stand. carburetors level. fab up a float support for flexing the tab, instead of bending it. supply a minimal amount of fuel using a funnel. only use 2 screws on the float bowls. saves time. measure the fuel level, clear tube method. then remove the floats that need adjusting and using the float support, flex the tab. reisntall and re-measure. it took me a few hours on a Saturday morning to get them all spot on. ps: don't bother measuring the float height. just measure the actual fuel level. 

Make sure there is no air bubble in the clear tube. It will throw off the reading. I slightly lower the open end of the clear tube, then raise it to get the bubble out.

Adjusting the fuel level is always a matter of a) patience... and b), of course, high-quality replacement parts—like genuine Mikuni or Keyster components; the Chinese knock-offs are all junk! And I don't bend the float tang itself; instead, I bend the brass frame right at the float bodies—carefully and evenly! If the tang is bent too sharply or at too steep an angle, the needle valve pin might snag or fail to slide linearly...
 

Last fall i used a sudco carb kit which I heard were high quality. It's sealing properly so I dont know whats going on. I'll probably have to check if the floats are getting fuel in them. Im also interested in what mfp Joe said regarding bending the frame instead of the tang because in bending the tang it was hitting the valve at an odd angle. Ill take a look at all of this stuff when I get off work today. Thanks guys!

Check the tip of the needle to see if it catches on a burr inside. Push it down slowly and if you feel anything replace the whole valve assy. I used one from another carb and it's working well. 

I had a nightmare doing my Keihin 34 CVK's on the Zeph11. They'd seem ok so drain and repeat. One would start overflowing or the levels would change. Ending up putting 4 new Keihin float valves in at 30 quid a pop. With the clear tube method I drain the carbs, allow a little fuel in the bowl but nowhere near full, just so the air bubble appears, then very gently blow the bubble back into the bowl. Then fill the up.

Well, I did it. It is not perfect but it'll work. It took 4-5 adjustments today to get it right. It turns out that the float height is wildly different than spec, which im not surprised about but even between each carb they are different by a lot.

Carb 1 is at about 20mm, carb 2 is at about 21.4mm, and carb 3 and 4 are at about 19mm. Carb 2 was an absolute royal pain to adjust since that one was so far off compared to the rest. I think the floats might be headed out the door since i could see some degradation on the bottom of some of the floats so that's not helping.

I verified that the float levels werent changing after I installed the carbs back on the bike and decided to take her for another test ride for a treat  . The frustration paid off but dang, its infuriating when a simple job turns into a project...  

Well thanks for all of the suggestions! I guess ill have some learned diagnostics to perform and something to look back on when dealing with float levels again.