rebuilding vm24 with acc pump for dummies

Nessism wrote:

82KZ305Belt wrote:

Can someone post a pic of these carbs installed, showing the cable linkage attachments? I thought I took pics before taking apart but apparently I didn't push "save."  Not too many ways they can go but if there is a wrong way I can find it. I know where each cable goes its just where the adjusting/lock nut ends up that I want to make certain of
 

eBay photos come in useful sometimes...
 

I need it with the cables attached, but I found what I need in the video I posted at the top of this thread so I'm good now. 

share.google/images/gzCsMYnWJ5mR9B4uL ,
hey Belt, this may help, stumbled upon this, you tube vid, figured out how to copy-paste on ipad

jwfels wrote:

share.google/images/gzCsMYnWJ5mR9B4uL ,
hey Belt, this may help, stumbled upon this, you tube vid, figured out how to copy-paste on ipad
 

That's the video where I found it.   I just need to decide which carbs to put in now...  

Wookie58 wrote:

Stick them in a bucket of boiling water for 20 mins then work quickly


 

That worked like a charm on 3 out of 4 (I am using the spare set of carbs a member sent), but I think #4 is beyond help. I'm going to need to decide on pods vs airbox mods to take different ducts and I still lean toward the latter. One thing I've noticed is that my airbox holes and ducts are all of equal diameter, but at least some other candidates for use have smaller diameter openings on 2 and 3. Would this affect jetting? 

In other news my new Mikuni pilot jet arrived and I noticed it has straight round holes instead of holes with oval-ish exterior bevels like the old ones do. Both have Mikuni stamps though and appear legit. Should I assume the oval-ish bevels were an unnecessary refinement, or should I assume something else?  I'd kinda like all my jets to be the same for peace of mind but don't really care to throw money away

Hey all, the carb dummy is back.     I never quite finished this carb clean/rebuild job last fall before the garage got too freeking cold, then I was working out of state until 3 days ago. I noticed I could have done a better job on cleaning so I am doing parts of it over.  

I put carb bowl #2, the one with accelerator pump, into hot water in my ultrasonic and when it was done this is what I found. I had already removed the check valve apparatus.



I don't see those parts in the FSM carb diagram of the #2, but this must be a valve for the acc pump.  Based on forensics I surmise that the spring> ball> bass plug  go (in that order) in the slotted port, leftmost of the two at the bottom of the bowl but would like confirmation. I'd also like to know what to use on the brass plug to secure it. 

 

As in attached photo. Unless you have a "vacuum" sensor that hole closest to the outside contains nothing. Generally the brass cover is a compression fit and requires no glue. If the ultrasonic machine rattled it out, just gently clean hole with a rope of 000 steel wool. Then just a dab of superglue on the outside of brass before installation, tap top to just flush of casting hole. No further or you'll bind the spring. YES ball bearing first, then spring followed by brass cap. Note my brass caps i've always had to drill/tap and pull out, leaving a hole i solder back up before reinstallation. Have fun!! 

So the red circled hole is the brass plug with soldered cap that you installed in the correct position, and the blue circled hole remains empty? I don't have the vacuum type.

Ball->Spring->Plug    I had the order wrong on my first post
 

#2 float bowl. non-vacuum sensor type. images were purported to be of 1980 vm24 AP carburetors but could be 81. don't know.
the parts diagrams and clymer manual show the vac sensor on the 1980 vm24s.
also. in case the fuel tee isn't sorted. #78 Danco o-rings from the hardware store should work on the fuel tee. credit to asphalt900.

 I finally got the job "done" and installed the carbs aaaaannnnd (drumroll)...it started right up and it runs. Like doggie doodoo. It is spitting and coughing. I believe its the #2 spitting. But I also forgot or hadn't paid close enough attention until I got them installed that the #2 airscrew port seems to have a helicoil or something in it, so maybe that's part of the problem. Another problem is that the brass tube connecting bowl 2 and 3 popped out. I got it back in but it is still leaking a tiny bit so the carbs will have to come off again. I have another #2 I can substitute if need be.  I was trying to take advantage of our last 2 warm days this weekend so I didn't check the fuel levels or vacuum synch it, but now I will have time to do those things because...

My intake ducts are total trash now, even after using wintergreen oil solution and a heat gun to make them nice and soft the #4 would barely reach and it hardened back into concrete quickly. I taped everything copiously on both ends though, and the starter fluid test did not reveal any leaks.  Nevertheless, doodoo, and I don't want to put those ducts on again, and I don't care to monkey around with modifying the airbox or trying to jerry rig ducts with hose (maybe I will do that some other year). I am going with pods, reluctantly. That probably won't cure all of my running issues, but at least I won't have to wrestle with ducts every time I take the carbs off and on. So I'll be removing the airbox, ordering correctors, some 95 main jets and some ugly pods. 

Do the "K&N style" pods at Z1 work well or are they too restrictive? Not too interested in spending $100 bucks on expensive ones. 
 

Stay with, you'll get there. I am also having my share of gremlins with finishing my build.

brass nipple reinstall. Permatex liquid metal around the end. small/minimal amount. then press it in. no need to use gobs of it. it's what I did on a petcock nipple years ago. the repair, not the gobs. ha ha. Seal-All is another product but I never used it. should be fuel proof. ps: needless to say. use fine sandpaper on the nipple and clean-up/buff the orifice. I probably used a sm stiff wire brush on the orifice.

H1Vindicator wrote:

brass nipple reinstall. Permatex liquid metal around the end. small/minimal amount. then press it in. no need to use gobs of it. it's what I did on a petcock nipple years ago. the repair, not the gobs. ha ha. Seal-All is another product but I never used it. should be fuel proof. ps: needless to say. use fine sandpaper on the nipple and clean-up/buff the orifice. I probably used a sm stiff wire brush on the orifice.

 

Yep, this is the same bowl that the pump plug popped out of when I boiled it. I wasn't confident I could get it back in with Seal-all without smearing it all over the place when the carbs and ducts are on. Gotta take them off to get the airbox off anyway. Checked the fuel level and 3 were a tad low, and one was extreeeeemely low. That probably didn't help it run. I tapped on it a little but that didn't change it. So off they come.