TOPIC:

GpzGreen wrote:

Carb have been gone through, all passages clear and all O-rings replaced.

Does the Timing Rotor position matter if the timing marks line up when we test with a strobe light?

Yes. The ignition must fire when the crankshaft is in a particular position. If the relationship between the crankshaft and rotor has been somehow disturbed, the ignition will fire at the wrong time relative to where the pistons are supposed to be.

If you have a TDC timing mark. probe #1 spark plug hole and get the piston to TDC. Check if the timing mark is on TDC.
Is there a full advance timing mark? When you checked with a timing light, did it move there when reving?

It is possible that the advancer could have been  reassembled 180 degrees off... the trigger point is not symmetrical. (the "raised" point on the trigger cam lobe)

H.

Your timing marks.

 
 

howardhb wrote:

It is possible that the advancer could have been  reassembled 180 degrees off... the trigger point is not symmetrical. (the "raised" point on the trigger cam lobe)


 

We have not checked the timing yet, may be a few days until we can check it.  We will check TDC and go from there.  How do we turn the motor by hand?  The labeled pictures are great, the manual is a bit unclear on these marks.

As the Rotor is not truly pointing at the TEC mark, I was not sure if something was installed wrong nor if the raised point was originally pressed on symmetrical as is questioned by edits on the pictures.

Seems if the timing marks line up at the correct rpm, then ignition is not the issue.

Turn the motor by using a 17mm HEX socket on the advancer. (do not use the 13mm bolt-head)
Only rotate clock-wise...

H.

To check the correct advancer assembly AND installation...

1. Turn the engine so that the timing mark "T" on the advancer plate lines up with the mark on the engine casing.
    (To ensure the advancer is assembled correctly: Make sure that the timing cam lobe is pointing to the rear of the motorcycle, see pic attached)

2.Remove spark plug #1 (left-hand side of the engine) and ensure that the piston is at the top.

  

H.

So, finally got time to get back to working on the bike.  TDC checks out fine.
At idle, about 1000 rpm it lines up with the 'idle' mark and at about 4000 rpm it is right in the middle of the 2 advanced marks, going to the last mark with a little more throttle. Thank you to everyone for the great diagrams and advice!

Still runs the same.  Chokes to life right away, will settle to a fairly decent idle but a bit delayed with taking throttle and can be forced to about 4.5k then falls back down; at this point I have to get off the gas so it will idle correctly, and I can start the cycle again.  All ignition parts test good, now there are no air filters (tried running by blocking most of the air but not helpful), Cleaned tank, new fuel and fuel lines with Edlebrock filter, Carbs gone through multiple times and all returned to original settings if adjustable.  The Uni filters that were on it had disintegrated so I replaced with the same.  Carb diaphragms were repaired and seem good.  Seems to be running rich.  Carbs go on the boots with a popping noise after a bit of heat.  Just wanted to mention that the carbs have not been separated during all of the cleanings, could that be leaving an issue?  They seem to be in synch looking at the butterflies closing.

This bike ran/carbureted perfectly before I parked it in my garage 24 years ago.  What am I missing?  

Have you tried an independent fuel supply that isn't running through the petcock ?

That's a car fuel filter, designed for a pressure fed fuel system.  You need to ditch the filter, or maybe get one designed for motorcycles and lawn mowers.  And put air filters on.  If running pods the carbs need to be jetted accordingly

Nessism wrote:

That's a car fuel filter, designed for a pressure fed fuel system.  You need to ditch the filter, or maybe get one designed for motorcycles and lawn mowers.  And put air filters on.  If running pods the carbs need to be jetted accordingly

The filter is an Edlebrock 645090 5/16" that I had read works for motorcycles.  I have run the bike without the filter before but saw no difference but will surely try again!  
Will try an external fuel tank tomorrow bypassing the petcock.

Carbs were tuned to perfection before storage with the Unipods by a Kawasaki mechanic in the late 80's.  We took them off to block air flow to test.  Thanks.

Is the 4.5K rpm limit both when reving in neutral, and when riding?
Can you look into the back of the carbs with the engine running?  As you rev the engine are the slides going up and down equally?