TOPIC:

Let’s review the basics –

That large adjuster screw is used to adjust the idle rpm by raising or lowering all 4 slides exactly the same amount. When you adjust it it should raise or lower all 4 slides the same amount which in turn will increase or decrease the engine’s idle rpm.

If that idle adjuster screw is set to a fairly central position when the slides heights are individually adjusted it can raise or lower the slides depending on which way it is turned. However, if the adjuster screw is set to one extreme or the other when the slides heights are individually adjusted it will not be able to adjust the slide heights beyond the position where it was set when the slides were adjusted.

Think of it this way – let’s assume the idle adjuster screw was turned all the way out when the 4 slide heights were individually adjusted, and when you started the engine you found the idle rpm was too high. You would not be able to lower the slides by turning the adjuster screw further out because it would already be turned all the way out. If, other the other hand, the adjuster screw was set to a central position when the individual slide heights were set, and when you started the engine you found the idle rpm to be too high, you could turn the adjuster further out to lower all 4 slides the exact same amount and thus lower the engine rpm to the correct level.

That is the reason for turning the idle adjuster to a central position before adjusting the individual slide heights. Ed

Put it back the way you had it before you turned the idle.

Forget the halfway idler screw adjustment. There is a pully stop screw you have to adjust as a lowest setting point for the sliders.
If you have set the sliders to the static reference you have to do a vaccum fine sync of the carbs.

I would not recommend forgetting the halfway idler screw adjustment.

Notice on Page 19 in the images posted under the heading “Idling Adjustment” it states:

1) Idle speed adjustment
- Start the engine, and warm it up for 5 minutes.
- Adjust the idle speed to 950 – 1,050 rpm by turning the idle adjusting screw.

My point was that if the idle adjustment screw is so far out that there’s no room left for adjustment one cannot use it to adjust the idle speed any lower. Ed

I'd just hate to see him monkey around with anything else if he has that initial opening set. I'll bet there is enough adjustment to see the idle stored adjusted. Of course you are right Ed, our would be better to do The whole procedure correctly. I'd have to look back on this thread tho to see if he has in fact gotten a copy of the manual. And there is also the next step which is to sync them.

I wouldn't think there would be anything wrong with popping those carbs on for a quick test. I guess that's the gist of what I'm suggesting.

I have found a synchronize r the old style with mercury that I'll be picking up on Monday. The Yuri is welcome to my gauges if he pays shipping.

Sorry for the typos, on this tablet it has a mind of its own

Cheap Chinese gauges are crap. These cost about $60 and they are better than nothing after you calibrate them. The mercury is the hot setup.

So you can calibrate Cheap Chinese crap gauges, nice to hear....you got the Job.

Thanks, I'm not available because I could never work for anyone else after 40 years of self employment - unless it was like at home depot where I fantasize about giving people bad advice -- much like I do here come to think of it. I even switch the hoses while syncing with gauges because I'm so anal.

Whaddya gonna do? I can't fire me.

I've actually thought about impersonating a home depot clerk believe it or not. Steal between the isle, slip on my orange smock or whatever you call it.

I think it would be a lark and worthy of a YouTube video or two.

You don't doubt this for a second do you?

Hi, I'm Togoster, written in script

I used to have the mercury carb sticks and they got borrowed forever by my nephew. They're great because there isn't a need to calibrate anything. Physics and physical properties do it for you. The simple is often the best for all intents and purposes, I think that's why I like these older simpler machines. The way things are going, manufactures want to exclude tinkerers or mechanics not sanctioned by the factory and they now seek to do that through complicating it and adding in proprietary property rights such as is the case with computerization and the software programs that are required. The analyzers required to troubleshoot are priced out of the range of the independent mechanic.

I could argue that all these advances are in reality just adding complexity in order to increase the manufacturer s bottom line but it's likely I'd be preaching to the choir

Enough thread hijacking.

Over and out