TOPIC:

Guys
I am not sure how to search the forum for a "gizmo" of any type.
Can someone send me a link to get the fuel level gauge tool used to check float level while carb is on engine. I think it is more accurate than checking float position while holding carb inverted and noting position of float.
The tool consists of a 6mm X 0.75mm thread-pitch nipple, with a short piece of silicone tubing, like 3mm or 1/8th inch ID. The cutoff valve is nice but not essential.
It is mentioned in the Clymer shop manual. My Clymer manual number is M359-3, third edition and the tool is pictured on page 180, fig. 26.
Thanks in advance for the help. I have already spend two hours trying to find a srew or anything else I could use to fabricate one and I just don't think that is time well invested.

I think www.z1enterprises.com sells them, or just use a piece of tubing that has an OD almost too big to fit into the threaded part of the float bowl. it might leak a few drops, but it works.
edit: I think you are after this
Scott

Post edited by: 77KZ650, at: 2007/01/23 19:30

you might try this link:

kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...atid,3/id,6801/#6801

I found it by searching the forum for "float level tool"

Post edited by: KaZooCruiser, at: 2007/01/23 19:33

No need to goof around with any special tools or home-
made tools. Just follow 77KZ650's advice and use a piece of clear plastic tubing "threaded" into the float bowl drain hole. Empty the float bowl. Loop the empty tube down and then up against top of float bowl and hold it dead steady while opening the petcock and awaiting the fuel level to settle. Then you know the fuel level inside the bowl. If the tube moves during this exercise, you have screwed up --- so re-test. Easy, fun test with no disassembly necessary (except removing float bowl drain screw in the carb being tested). Best to do this outside instead of a closed garage because of the gas odor and clean-up necessary.

77KZ650 wrote:

I think www.z1enterprises.com sells them, or just use a piece of tubing that has an OD almost too big to fit into the threaded part of the float bowl. it might leak a few drops, but it works.
edit: I think you are after this
Scott<br><br>Post edited by: 77KZ650, at: 2007/01/23 19:30

i have done this. just stick some clear tubing into the hole that is the same size as the threaded hole..it will drip a little, but it works.

77KZ650 wrote:

I think www.z1enterprises.com sells them, or just use a piece of tubing that has an OD almost too big to fit into the threaded part of the float bowl. it might leak a few drops, but it works.
edit: I think you are after this
Scott<br><br>Post edited by: 77KZ650, at: 2007/01/23 19:30

Thanks for the link.
I thought I wanted the tool they have for sale at www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2570 But having found out that it is $70, I think I have a better idea. I think I will use a piece of slightly over sized flex tube "screwed" into the drain port.

I think I will use a piece of slightly over sized flex tube "screwed" into the drain port.

Newbie question - I take it that this would work for any carb, not just the 650's? Yup, I am thinking of my dear 750 twin

77KZ650 wrote:

I think www.z1enterprises.com sells them, or just use a piece of tubing that has an OD almost too big to fit into the threaded part of the float bowl. it might leak a few drops, but it works.
edit: I think you are after this
Scott<br><br>Post edited by: 77KZ650, at: 2007/01/23 19:30

Thanks for the link.
I thought I wanted the tool they have for sale at www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2570 But having found out that it is $70, I think I have a better idea. I think I will use a piece of slightly over sized flex tube "screwed" into the drain port.

EsaPro wrote:

I think I will use a piece of slightly over sized flex tube "screwed" into the drain port.

Newbie question - I take it that this would work for any carb, not just the 650's? Yup, I am thinking of my dear 750 twin.

I think it would work for any carb where you can get the proper "clearance" to use the tube in the first place. The main advantage in my opinion is this; with multiple carb set-ups, you can get _every_ carb set to exactly the same level, right or wrong. So of course if you can find out what that level should be, then you can fiddle with each one till you get all exactly right. The other advantage is that you can see very precisely just what that level is with respect to the top of the bowl. 'Don't know how you can be certain of this otherwise. But then I am also a newbie and I tend to want to over-complicate things wherever possible.

EsaPro wrote:

I think I will use a piece of slightly over sized flex tube "screwed" into the drain port.

Newbie question - I take it that this would work for any carb, not just the 650's? Yup, I am thinking of my dear 750 twin

Hi EsaPro, the twins are a bit different, and easier. On the bottom of the carb is a drain nipple. Put a couple of short 2X4's under the side stand, to get the bike as upright as possible then, just get some aquarium tubing and push on this nipple. Then bring the tubing up, along side the carb float bowl, tape or hold it there, with a good bit of the tubing extending above the carb. Then open the drain valve screw. The gas level in the tubing will be the same level the gas is at in the carb bowls. Cost is about $2 for the cost of the tubing.

Post edited by: ronjones, at: 2007/01/24 08:43

I made my own years ago, but really the tool is near worthless because the angle of the carbs is critical to accurate readings. The carbs have to be sitting 100% dead on level for the tool to work, even the centerstand is not sufficient to ensure the motocycle is level. On mine I used a level, adusted the centerstand by placing "adjustments" under the applicable leg such as newspaper, thin wood ect, until the bike was perfectly level then checked my fuel levels. If your motorcycle is not perfectly level your readings will vary by several millimeters from what is actually there. Too much hassell in my opinion. Too much margin for erroneous readings. Set them all perfect, go out for a 30 second ride, recheck and you'll get different readings because the carbs are angled 1% different than last time you checked.

I have my carbs out for rebuilding right now, is this procedure possible to do with the carbs off? I am assuming the bowls just need to be level to get the correct measurement. It seems it would be easier to get them level on the bench than on the bike.