TOPIC:

wrote:

wrote:

Interested to see what you think of the ultrabatt battery, I'm considering using one on my bike, due to the light weight and freeing up space under the seat...

Looks like a nice product but they aren't doing a great job of selling it on their site.  Not a lot of details, no manual or detailed specs, and the support page says:

Support function is not working yet.
Please contact us…

This photo is the only piece of information on the entire site:
www.ultrabatt.com/ultrabatt/wp-content/u..._Flyer_2014_EN-2.jpg

 

I know a couple of guys that use them for racing and they like them, can't find much info online except for forums, they seem to work well. They have a built in overcharge circuit which is cool, i've actually held the 180cca one in my hand and they bare amazingly light weight...

Finally got back to this project. Got the seat ready to take to the upholsterer next friday. Made the pan out of 3mm Vivak - a thermoplastic material that is pretty easy to work with. The first two photos below shows the rough form before I shaped the edges and put the foam on.












After the foam was on I noticed a flat spot on the right hand side. The edge should run where the blue tape is. I'll talk to the guy tomorrow about the best way to fix this...

That seat is a nice piece Calum, the pan is really nice work, how did you shape it ?

I have been trying to make a seat pan out of 1/8" ABS plastic sheet for a Street Tracker project I am working on.  I found that heating it with a heat gun wasn't cutting the mustard, so I stepped up to a propane torch.  That got things going!  Unfortunately being my first attempt at thermoforming, the results weren't perfect.  Okay, less than perfect.  But it should do fine since it really isn't visible.  It was an interesting experience since I have never tried this process before.  What you have done with that clear material surpasses what I was able to do by a long shot!  Well done, sir!  

wrote:

I have been trying to make a seat pan out of 1/8" ABS plastic sheet for a Street Tracker project I am working on.  I found that heating it with a heat gun wasn't cutting the mustard, so I stepped up to a propane torch.  That got things going!  Unfortunately being my first attempt at thermoforming, the results weren't perfect.  Okay, less than perfect.  But it should do fine since it really isn't visible.  It was an interesting experience since I have never tried this process before.  What you have done with that clear material surpasses what I was able to do by a long shot!  Well done, sir!  

If you're trying to shape that plastic over a form of some sort, you could try doing it in an oven.. It was a long time ago but that's how we did it at school..!!

I cut up a rusty seat pan and screwed a bit of aluminium to it. I used the stock rubber dampers and duct taped the whole thing to the tank and tail section. I also duct taped a few things to the pan to make room for wiring etc. Using the heat gun the Vivak just sort of melted on to the pan, tank and tail section. After that I added a few more recesses with a bit of steel bar and carefully applied heat.

The oven would probably work but I don't think I can fit the frame in it

Some more work on the tray under the seat today. Got the recess for the regulator-rectifier finished and added a tab at the front to keep things stable. Also got the mount for the starter relay welded on. Just need to do the RFID sensor and one more relay then I'm done. That just leaves the bottom oil cooler bracket and the exhaust bracket to go - then I'll finally have all the parts made!

 

 

 

Got some time in the neighbours spray room yesterday. Got the crankcases done as well as the tank for another project (93 Zephyr). Heading away for 10 days tomorrow, will try and get the head and cylinders done when I get back. I want to have it painted before I do the first mock-up so it will be easier to decide on the colour of the tank and tail. 

   

  

Got something in the mail yesterday - always nice when there's a bunch of japanese newspapers being used as packaging. Replica of the 6-piece Kerker system used on the 1000R (or so I'm told). There's a kerker badge there that will be slapped on it so I can pretend it's the real thing

 


Now that the resto motor is off the bench I can start getting the bottom end together. Crank is pinned and balanced - didn't have much choice as the guy who is getting this thing through the German MOT said it needed to be done. I was on the fence and it seems everyone has a different opinion as to when welding/pinning is necessary. Anyway, I now have peice of mind whenever I miss a gear
APE engine studs are in and I torqued down the main bearing cap so I felt like I had actually put something together today... shame I didn't put the cam chain on first!

[EDIT: was I right in just threading the studs in until the last of the threads just engaged with the crankcase threads? I used loctite on them as it seemed they would go in way too far before they bottomed out. I turned the front two in the photo a bit too far in and they would have kept going. They stick out just enough for all the threads on the nut to engage.]

 


On a side note, getting closer to having more space in the garage. Cockpit is done (except for a bit of wiring), just the side covers and front mudguard to go.

 
  
  

Looks killer 

Thanks, the boy is pretty happy with it!

Great job, Calum!