TOPIC:

Drilled and tapped the holes for the 550 side stand switch today. Need to weld something to the stand so it hits the switch. Working on the Duke 125 tomorrow so I guess that'll have to wait until next weekend.

 

 

Found a decent used tank today that has been cut for an aero tank cap. It's pretty cheap due to having been modified. I don't have a cap for the tank yet so I need to get one anyway and if I sell my current tank I will cover the costs of the new one. Basically I'll have to spend a few dollars on a weld-in bung but will break even on the cap and tank. 

I'm thinking of getting a newton cap (www.newton-equipment.de/aerocaps/aerocaps_300.html) without a key - don't want a key, the crime rate here is ridiculously low and I won't be leaving this thing parked anywhere for too long anyway.
I really can't decide on this one and would like some opinions. One thing I'm unsure of is whether I need a vent. I'm assuming the newton caps have a similar mechanism to the stock ones so will relieve any pressure that builds up, but the only bikes I've seen with this style of cap all have vents.

Here's the tank (in German, just says no rust inside, small dent on left side, has been bead blasted and there's a hole cut for the cap): www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/kawa.../1995228727-306-2700

Those Newton caps are good quality , i have a couple on my Zeds.
You may need the bigger 8 bolt 400 version which is more commonly used on these  :::...NEWTON EQUIPMENT DEUTSCHLAND...:::...Aerocaps (newton-equipment.de)  as the one in the link is very small (i have one) and might drop through the hole in that tank so measure that first.
You will also need a tank vent if using the non locking type. 

OK, thanks. I'll write to the guys at newton and see what they recommend. Still not sure though - question of style I suppose and I just can't seem to decide. I guess I've deviated so far from the stock look that it doesn't really matter anymore...

Hi Callum, personally I like the look of the separate vent. However a word of warning, be careful with your choice of "check valve". As far as I am aware there are two types, an in-line one and one that screws into the top of the tank. I have used both in the past as my Harris originally had the magnum 2 tank which came with a 90 degree 6mm pipe welded into the tank for the vent, the magnum 4 tank I fitted later had a threaded insert for the check valve in the top of the tank. In both cases I ran the vent pipe into the top of the steering stem (which is the norm) In the case of the in-line one, the first time I rode the bike after completing the build I was braking hard for a roundabout at the end of a long straight when the front end starting sliding around all over the place, the valve hadn't functioned correctly and I had dumped fuel all over the front wheel (evident by the pickled paint on the front fender) I re-routed the pipe but the valve still misfunctioned a couple of times. When it was replaced with a screw in type I never had any more issues with either tank. I am guessing you can live without this kind of excitement in your life 

Definitely don't need that kind of excitment
Will make sure I get a decent valve, was going to run it to the steering stem. My stem has an M16 thread that I can use but the hole doesn't go through. I figured I'd turn a fitting for the vent tube that screws into the thread but has some holes drilled around the circumference - that will mean the tank can vent but if the valve fails I'll see the fuel all over the top yoke before it gets to the front wheel.

Thinking of going for something like this: z1ownersclub.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=259034#p259034

That's the one, the valve in your link was the screw in type which I used with no issues 

If you want to recess the cap these VW Golf repair panels take a lot of the hard work out of it 
 

Thanks, I'll probably go with one of these - more money, less work  although I'm still looking for a cheaper option.

www.wwag.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/WebSite....tion?page=%21WW24480

wrote:

Thanks, I'll probably go with one of these - more money, less work  although I'm still looking for a cheaper option.

www.wwag.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/WebSite....tion?page=%21WW24480

What about using the Newton cap, but instead of using the flanged neck with bolt holes, use the short neck without a flange, shown as P/N A3NP.   The "P" is made from steel.  Welding the short filler neck in directly to the tank would make for a very subtle and low-profile filler cap.  I think that would look really slick.  You already have a professional welder you've been working with.

I did consider that as well. I quite like the ring with the screws though and the other problem is that the cap would actually just drop in the hole in the tank (the hole is 69mm so the 300 with a flange would just be OK, but then I'd need to do some filler work on the indent for the stock cap).

Edit: maybe this one www.newton-equipment.com/pdfs/aero-400/o...8-039-tech-sheet.pdf

Its a few extra quid but a whole load less work.