TOPIC:

wrote:

 Just wondering if it's worth the trouble with the Ricks reg/rec that I'll be using. 

Do you know if that's a shunt style regulator (like the OE part) or a series regulator like the HSH775?

If it's a shunt regulator, any time the generator is making more energy than you are consuming, the regulator turns that excess energy into heat. 
So the answer to how hot it gets depends very much on what else you put on the bike as a load. 
If you end up with mostly efficient LED bulbs, for example, that would tend to make the regulator run hotter. 
If you fit a 100W halogen headlight maybe that takes load off of the regulator and allows it to run cooler.

In any case, given that it has big cooling fins on it, it probably makes sense to give it some airflow.

wrote:

Do you know if that's a shunt style regulator (like the OE part) or a series regulator like the HSH775?

 

It's a Ricks 14-515. Not sure what flavour it is - couldn't find any details on the website.

In any case, given that it has big cooling fins on it, it probably makes sense to give it some airflow.
 

Yeah, that was my thinking. I guess I was just hoping someone would come along and say that it's unnecessary - would've made things a bit easier.

Worth a conversation with the manufacturer, the alloy plate it is bolted to will act as a “ heat sink” and radiate the heat but it may not be enough?

wrote:

Worth a conversation with the manufacturer, the alloy plate it is bolted to will act as a “ heat sink” and radiate the heat but it may not be enough?

Dunno why I didn't get in touch with Ricks straight away   They got back to me within about thirty minutes and said it shouldn't be a problem. From his answer it was clear that it would be better underneath though. I'll tape it to the bottom an see how it looks just bolted straight to the tray - if I recess the tray I may run out of room for the wiring, breather tube etc.

I had my Ricks RR under the tail for a few years before it melted, when it did it was an exceptionally hot day - 105F. You will probably be fine, but I moved it behind the carbs for more airflow to not have to shell out another $130.

What if you turn it 90°? That way you will get airflow/cooling between the ribs through the hole in the frame:

That hole at the front won't be there when I'm done. That's why I was planning on recessing the underside and bolting it on the bottom (will mount it sideways as well). If I recess the bottom to much I'll run out of room for the wiring etc. though. Thinking of just putting about a 15-20mm step in the plate so the rectifier is at least partly covered.

Side stand switch sorted. Took some advice from the old man and rotated it a bit. It's a lot smoother now.

 

Trying to get the electrics sorted. Cut out a section of the try to recess the rectifier - will mount it under the try to avoid any potential overheating. I also cut out a bit of 6mm plexiglas for the middle section. I'll put a bunch of helicoils in the plexiglas for the electrical components and also to mount it to the tray.

 

 

Looking tidy Calum

wrote:

Looking tidy Calum

Thanks. Put in some of the helicoils today and made a bracket for the starter relay. The relay is sitting up pretty high in the photo but I'll get some pan head screws for the bracket and it will drop down a bit. May still be too high in which case it will be moved back towards the battery. Good thing I don't need too much foam on the seat for this bike
 
 

 

 

If the solenoid doesn't fit under the seat, I wonder if you could find a place to mount it next to the starter motor and oil pressure switch.  The wiring wouldn't be quite as clean since you'd have to run the coil wires down there, but it seems like you'll have a harness path from the engine up to the seat anyway so maybe it doesn't look much different.