TOPIC:

wrote:

Took some measurments ..... Would be interested in opinions on whether I should go with scantily clad or fully naked:

 

 

 

 

 

Was it mine, I'd go BUTT NEKID just to show off those triples!

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You don't need a complicated jig to relocate the upper shock mounts but they are nice if you do this frequently. I made this crude jig to locate the upper shock mounts when i relocated them on my 750G. Triangulate the upper mount off the pivot and the lower shock mount. When I machined the mounts I had a 1/4" pilot hole pass all the way through so I could pass through some 1/4" rod side-to-side to make sure the mounts were on the same axis. Their location is just as exact as the stock mounts, if not more so.

Maybe Accurate would have been a better description, did your "jig" incorporate the  angled rear Frame down tubes across the frame?   Your solution gives you the position but it still needs to be drilled dead straight across the frame...   Does that make sense, Its hard to explain through typing....{maybe I'm getting to old !}

wrote:

should go with scantily clad or fully naked:

 

 

I really like that fairing, but of course I'm a big Z1R fan so that's not surprising.  However, from this angle is looks like it's too far forward due to the length of the headlight bucket.  Like it's kind of floating out in space.  It might not interact well with the clip-ons, but it seems like it would look better if it were moved closer to the triple clamps?

wrote:

Maybe Accurate would have been a better description, did your "jig" incorporate the  angled rear Frame down tubes across the frame?   Your solution gives you the position but it still needs to be drilled dead straight across the frame...   Does that make sense, Its hard to explain through typing....{maybe I'm getting to old !}



 

I did not drill the down tube as that was not necessary for the dims my application required. I simply rotated the mount forward, tacked it to the frame and then boxed it in to look factory. the 1/4" (6mm) rod passing through both mounts (not pictured) ensured the mounts were concentric and the plates ensured they were triangulated. When I did the mounts on my KZ1000 and it required drilling the frame tubes my buddy (who did the fab) just marked it by hand and drilled a pilot slowly stepping up and double checking the angles and position with a similar jig to above.

Jigs are great and make things easier but for something this simple you don't need anything complex to get good results. You can have a robust jig and do a poor job of weld sequencing and have to hammer the work piece out of the jig, alternatively you can weld sequence properly and as long as they are located correctly they will work fine. Even if you screwed up and oversized the hole an 1/8" (3mm) as long as its located correctly and you sequence the welds they can be just as accurate as one located with a robust jig. . The other thing to remember is that these mounting points don't need to be super accurate. I doubt anyone could tell the difference between a shock mounts that were a few mm off, and since Calum has adjustable shocks its pretty easy to adjust the height to remove any differences with negligible effects

 

Thanks guys - I do love this forum

@750R1: as long the sag is set up right once everything is in the frame, I should be able to calculate the change in geometry from a rolling chassis.

@Doctorot: thanks for the photo. I'll use something like your jig to get the correct location/angle and prep everything but here in Germany there's no way I'll get through the MOT unless I get the welding done by someone certified (who will probably have a good jig).

@slayer61: I hear ya - I do like those triples, but also like the fairing... If I mount it to the headlight maybe I can chop and change depending on my mood

@DOHC: That's what I was thinking - I'll get some shorter headlight mounts and see how it looks.

This is the jig i made for shock mount location.
Adjustable for stock or custom positions, different swingarms, width etc and has drill guide and location pin attachments .
Also good for checking the stock shock mount positions which are hardly ever exact.

nice work there Zed. Looks like I made a hillbilly version of that. What is this part of the jig used for?
 

wrote:

This is the jig i made for shock mount location.
Adjustable for stock or custom positions, different swingarms, width etc and has drill guide and location pin attachments .
Also good for checking the stock shock mount positions which are hardly ever exact.

Thanks zed - looks like that would make things a lot easier. Any chance you could post a few more photos? I can see what looks like two adjustment screws but I'm not sure how everything fits together (how the two sides are kept aligned, how the shock length is locked into place...).

Calum.
That pic is from page 3 of my current project thread over on the UK Z1owners site.
Here's a link to the thread which puts it in context and would save a lot of copying over to here.
You should be able to view it all without logging in as a member.

Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo. - Page 3 - Z1OwnersClub GB

DoctoRot post=845914nice work there Zed. Looks like I made a hillbilly version of that. What is this part of the jig used for?
 
 

Those are just some universal movable mounting points ( steel blocks with several threaded holes that can be placed anywhere on the bar ) for setting the shock width, keeping the bars parallel with the aid of an adjustable cross brace or fixing the swingarm height with the addition of some brackets to a point on the frame etc..

Thanks Zed1015, your jig is almost exactly what I was alluding to earlier in this thread...  Any more progress on the Moriwaki ?

 

Thanks zed, I'll have a talk to the MOT guy and see what I'm allowed to do myself. Hopefully I can prep everything and tack the mounts in place, then just get them welded. If so I can use those pics to copy your jig