TOPIC:

Nessism wrote:
You can use a file after painting the black. That's what I did. No clear. The exposed polished areas will tarnish with time but I'm not a fan of rattle can clear (even less so than rattle can black.)

I have read good reviews of the PJ1 Fast Black. I am hoping it lives up to it's reputation.

Mikaw wrote:

Skidmark wrote:

calum wrote: I put clear on mine, but it was 2K clear engine paint through a gun.

I tried looking for quarts or liquid, not aerosol.
I do not believe 2K Clear is available in the US - EU countries cannot ship it here.

It’s available at painters supply in the states. not sure if this one is high heat but they carry 2K

I had thought the ultrasonic cleaning on the cylinder head had just left some of the OG paint behind... now that masking for paint is nearing completion I began doing a really thorough inspection. Old oil and road bits were congealed on top of the head between the fins. A lot of pick work, to be followed up with brake cleaner (carb cleaner doesn't cut it). Yeah, no one will see it, but I will! This thing will be clean. Surface prep means everything to paint adhesion.

While cleaning up the residue left on the cylinder head, I cleaned up the threads in the head for the valve cover using a tap. I was extremely careful cleaning the threads out afterward. I also picked up a thread chasing die to repair some of the bolts. Even though these will not be used during final assembly (only for painting), I didn't want them to mess up the inside threads again. All bolts had the threads cleaned on the wire wheel, then chased with the die. With all that said, the valve cover is on for the last time and ready for paint. I had to order another set of urethane masking plugs to protect the balance of threaded holes, so I have to wait for those to arrive before I can begin the paint process. Small steps... but needed.

I could only recommend making degreasing before glass beads blasting. Glass beads blasting blow dry dirt pretty well but it is mostly useless against grease.  In fact the process of preparing parts for glass beads blasting takes much more time then blasting itself. I use degreasing (engine cleaning) gun filled with gasoline, carburetor cleaner, lot of different brushes (including small brass wire brushes and toothbrushes ) and scotchbrite-on-a-sticks to remove as much of dirt and  grease as possible before glass beads blasting.  For KZ650 cylinders it took two days of cleaning and preparations (covering) followed by only  20 minutes of glass bead blasting to get cylinder ready for painting, without any spot of dirt on them

All of the grease was off the bottom end before bead blast. This junk is coming off the head. The cylinder head was never put in the bead blast.

Whoops, sorry, I only recently finished my cylinders (bored, honed, upper surface planned, then cleaned, blasted and painted) so seems I've been carried away and somehow decided you have an issues after blasting.

It's all good, Gazzz... I always look at your quality and craftsmanship and just hope I can get there someday! With so many details to work through it's easy to miss one and have to back track.

I gave the motor a thorough wipe down with acetone, and finished up the masking.

And the first (of many) coat of satin black is on!!

The reason some areas appear glossier than others is I just couldn't wait to take some pics!!! Those areas are still wet while the others are drier.

One aerosol can almost covered the entire engine with a light coat. I am planning on three coats of black, with the remainder of the fourth can left for touch up and stand mounting points.