TOPIC:

Mikaw wrote: That the classic story of the old bull and young bull on the hill looking down at all the cows............................

Been sitting on this for a few days... But I think I need to watch this again



BTW: that engine is coming along - good to see you making progress.

Ooohh boy, I can almost smell the paint!!! A few more masking areas, get the mount bolt in, and a good wipe down with alcohol and I should be ready to stink up the shop.

Looking good. If you have the old carb boots lying around it will make masking up the intakes easier. Looking forward to seeing that thing painted and assembly started

If you plan to polish portions of the clutch and ignition housing now is the time, before paint.

Looking good by the way.

Nessism wrote: If you plan to polish portions of the clutch and ignition housing now is the time, before paint.

Looking good by the way.

Good point. If you want to sand back the cooling fins this is also the time to get them sanded back to a uniform thickness.

calum wrote:

Nessism wrote: If you plan to polish portions of the clutch and ignition housing now is the time, before paint.

Looking good by the way.

Good point. If you want to sand back the cooling fins this is also the time to get them sanded back to a uniform thickness.

You can use a file after painting the black. That's what I did. No clear. The exposed polished areas will tarnish with time but I'm not a fan of rattle can clear (even less so than rattle can black.)

I did it after the fact as well, but needed to take a lot of metal off to get it looking good. If I did it again I'd do it beforehand just so it would take so long after painting (less risk of getting impatient and messing it up).
I put clear on mine, but it was 2K clear engine paint through a gun.

Some points on the finish direction I am taking with this motor.

I do not own any spray equipment, and have never used a spray gun.

I haven't decided on whether to use a hi-temp clear or not. The clears I have used on other projects have not performed well (not hi-temp). They reacted with the base color, and caused the entire finish to wrinkle horribly. This makes me nervous, and a complete strip is required at that point. I really don't want this to turn into the debacle that the fuel tank rust removal turned into!

The text on the ignition cover, the cylinder head fins, and the ends of the cam cover with stay aluminum in color. I would like to protect the raw aluminum somehow, not sure yet. My plan is to remove the black paint to expose these areas after painting. These areas will a brushed or sanded finish, not polished.

Clutch cover will remain entirely black. The motor will be almost entirely blacked out, save for the areas mentioned above.

All of the finishing on the motor will be completed prior to installation in the frame (or final assembly, for that matter).

Some painting will be required while the engine is off the engine stand.

All of the fasteners used in final assembly will be new, unless it can't be found. If original hardware is used I plan to paint it first. (thinking engine mounting bolts).

I am considering installing the top end after the bottom end is in the frame. This will make is easier to get it in the newly powder coated frame without scratching it or the motor. Lighter = easier in my mind... any thoughts otherwise I would love to hear!

I may have to clean some threads for the cam cover (not ruling out a heli-coil). One bolt came out the damaged threads. Hoping a bottoming tap will clean them up without having to use an insert.

calum wrote: I put clear on mine, but it was 2K clear engine paint through a gun.

I do not believe 2K Clear is available in the US - EU countries cannot ship it here.

Skidmark wrote:

calum wrote: I put clear on mine, but it was 2K clear engine paint through a gun.

I do not believe 2K Clear is available in the US - EU countries cannot ship it here.

It’s available at painters supply in the states. not sure if this one is high heat but they carry 2K

If you haven't had any luck with clear coats in the past I'd probably tend to leave it as is. You'll probably have some touch up work to do at the end of every season as the paint will tend to flake of around the sanded parts.

Definitely put the bottom end in the frame first. It's a lot easier to handle and apart from some pissing around with piston rings the top end is pretty easy to assemble in the frame.

EDIT: I've had good results with SprayMax and Colormatic 2K rattle cans in the past. Most 2k paints should handle the heat fine.

Future touch up is a good point, which has been on my mind. I like the wear protection of a clear (boot contact, gravel chips, etc.), but it would make touch up more complicated.