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Several hours into the stripper application and the gaskets are still trying to become one with the aluminum cases. I must be impatient! I had a friend in So Cal give me a recommendation for a guy who does vapor blasting. He has worked with him several times and gives the guy two thumbs up. This will be a last ditch option for me since I really don't want to ship the cases. I am very leery of shipping/handling damage. Not throwing in the towel yet on the stripper. Hey, who doesn't like strippers?

I watched a Youtube video of a guy who used small scotchbrite wheels on an air grinder to remove stubborn gaskets. Looked very effective, but I would think it would be easy to damage the sealing surface and end up with an oil leak. It did make quick work of the old gaskets, though.

I do the same thing. I use the paint stripping wheels not scotchbright. they are more gentle on the aluminum. It takes a careful hand to control it but if use a drill or something with a lower RPM overall its pretty safe. Not for novices. be careful about hooking the edge of the surface.

I am going to be patient and see if more time will allow the paint stripper to work it's chemical magic. If after 24 hours the gaskets are still not cooperating, I will resort to the mechanical method. Vapor blasting is definitely last on the list, and least desired due to shipping risk.

Day two of paint stripper application. This stuff doesn't seem to be making much difference. Multiple applications throughout the day to keep it moist. After 24 hours I haven't noticed any changes in the gasket adhesion. I am continuing to apply the paint stripper today, every hour or two. Patience, young padewan....

That the classic story of the old bull and young bull on the hill looking down at all the cows............................

After 48 hours of paint stripper I am convinced there will not be any further changes to the gaskets with the product I am using. I have been testing the adhesion with a hard plastic scrapper, but that isn't going to be as useful as I hoped it would. Today I am cleaning up the chemical mess and going after the gaskets with a single edged razor blade. If that still proves to be too much effort, the paint stripper wheels will be the next step.

About half way in 30 minutes of razor blade work. I admit it is a little easier after the paint stripper, but not a whole lot. The factory must have used some kind of sealer on the base gasket - the last layer is a pain, and a different color than the gasket material.

I put another coat of paint stripper on after getting 99% of the base gasket off. Hoping it will get it clean without too much abrasion.

Glad this is clean, finally!

My plan for the engine paint is to glass bead blast the entire exterior surface of the engine and cases. I feel the best approach is to using masking tape for make shift gaskets, use the old engine bolts, and put it back together without the internals. Then blast and paint the motor as one unit. Disassemble, clean, and start the assembly process. This will make the masking easier (less) instead of doing one part at a time.

The oil pan gasket should be easier to remove than the base gasket. Once I have that surface clean, I can start to tape off the sealing surfaces and start bolting it back together. I will use the old spark plugs to plug the head, stuff rags in the intake and exhaust ports, and tape those off as well. The cylinder block and head are already clean and ready for paint, so those won't get a direct blast while in the cabinet. Just the lower cases and covers.