TOPIC:

GPzMOD750 wrote: OK

I swapped the first stator back In and ran the tests. I'm getting 66 +/-VAC @ 4000 rpm and 78 + VAC @ 5000 rpm. I hooked up the R/R and I'm getting Approx 13.5v-13.8v from 2k-5k rpm. It stops charging at approx. 1000 rpm.

I contacted the seller of the R/R and told him I was having problems. He first asked the Vin# of my vehicle. i replied that I was retrofitting to a Kawasaki and asked him if the link I sent of the bench test was kosher for this model of R/R. The reply signed by a different person was "This came off of a running machine...Thanks, "

Should I ask for a return/replacement?

I'd say no unless you can prove that the R/R is defective.

Nessism wrote:
I'd say no unless you can prove that the R/R is defective.

Does the above description indicate any defect? Should I be expecting more charge at 5k and any charge at all 1k and below?

GPzMOD750 wrote:

Nessism wrote:
I'd say no unless you can prove that the R/R is defective.

Does the above description indicate any defect? Should I be expecting more charge at 5k and any charge at all 1k and below?

Not with a weak stator. Your systems performance is exactly the same as my bikes was (and I tried two different stators) until I installed the new Rick's stator.

I'd be happy with it. Remember, the battery will take enough to get to full charge which may take a while. Once it's fully charged the number should come up. I'm running a stock KZ 1000 R/R and it takes a while but on the FWY, it's reading 14.5 V.
Steve

swest wrote: I'd be happy with it. Remember, the battery will take enough to get to full charge which may take a while. Once it's fully charged the number should come up. I'm running a stock KZ 1000 R/R and it takes a while but on the FWY, it's reading 14.5 V.
Steve

I just put everything back together and I didn't get anything above 12V on the onboard v-meter at any speed. nothing over 12.5 with multimeter at any rev.

Nessism wrote:

GPzMOD750 wrote:

Nessism wrote:
I'd say no unless you can prove that the R/R is defective.

Does the above description indicate any defect? Should I be expecting more charge at 5k and any charge at all 1k and below?

Not with a weak stator. Your systems performance is exactly the same as my bikes was (and I tried two different stators) until I installed the new Rick's stator.

My stator is exceeding your desired specs so I don't know why you think the R/R isn't having issues.

I'm charging the battery right now and I''m going to take it to work and back tomorrow. If the performance doesn't improve I'm going to ask the seller for a replacement or refund.

I'm about 90% sure your stator is bad. As mentioned already, more than once, checking the stator VAC output at NO LOAD is not a definitive test unless the values are LOW. If high, that still doesn't mean the stator is going to make full power.

Why don't you install your old stock shunt R/R back and see what happens? Those old stock units were made by Shindengen and are very reliable. I can tell you already though that you won't get more output. It will show same as the SH775 or lower.

I found a test online that says to test the 3 stator wires of the regulator to the battery ground. If there is current in any one of them the regulator is bad. I have a full battery charge flowing through each of the contacts.

Is this a proper test for a series R/R?

Nessism wrote: I'm about 90% sure your stator is bad. As mentioned already, more than once, checking the stator VAC output at NO LOAD is not a definitive test unless the values are LOW. If high, that still doesn't mean the stator is going to make full power.

Why don't you install your old stock shunt R/R back and see what happens? Those old stock units were made by Shindengen and are very reliable. I can tell you already though that you won't get more output. It will show same as the SH775 or lower.

i started this thread with the assumption that it was bad. You helped me decide to get the best series R/R that could be had for the money.

I'm not smart enough electrically speaking to instruct you on how to bench test an R/R. I can tell you that all the various Shindengen R/R's are very reliable though. I've got a brand new SH775 I can send to you for testing purposes. Send me a PM if you want to discuss arrangements. All I ask is for you to pay shipping and promise to send it back when done.

Nessism wrote: I'm not smart enough electrically speaking to instruct you on how to bench test an R/R. I can tell you that all the various Shindengen R/R's are very reliable though. I've got a brand new SH775 I can send to you for testing purposes. Send me a PM if you want to discuss arrangements. All I ask is for you to pay shipping and promise to send it back when done.

That is very generous but i don't think it's necessary but if you cold could you run this thest for me on any SH775 you know is good.

"To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator."

Oh, and if you also wouldn't mind. could you test the resistance between the stator leads? The chart I posted earlier says 0.48-.072 Ω.

GPzMOD750 wrote: Oh, and if you also wouldn't mind. could you test the resistance between the stator leads? The chart I posted earlier says 0.48-.072 Ω.

I did this on my weak stator(s) and got 0.73 ohms. The Rick's got 0.72 ohms. Yet another non-definitive test.

Sorry, but I'm not following the R/R test instructions as written.

Please provide more specific test instructions for testing the R/R on the bench.

"To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground (does this mean I connect the R/R - output terminal to the battery - post?), red lead to each pin on the plug (what does "red lead to each pin on the plug mean? What pins? The pins for the stator input?), start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator."