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No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

Nessism wrote: The SH775 looks like the MOSFET FHXXX family of Shindengen R/R units, only it's greatly improved because it's a SERIES type R/R which protects your stator from shunted current overheat.

The Eastern Beaver connector will work but it's quite expensive. The Triumph jumper harness is much cheaper and it has the connector plugs you need to fit the R/R so you can then splice it into your existing harness from there.

I bought that one for $35. I haven't found the triumph loom on eBay yet. The dealer is in spitting distance of me I'll check to see what they want for it.

Does someone have a diagram for wiring conversion?

GPzMOD750 wrote: Does someone have a diagram for wiring conversion?

Feed stator wires straight into the R/R.

Negative to battery, solid frame point, starter solenoid, etc.

Power output feed to same place as your stock bike. My 750 feeds power straight to the battery (via the starter solenoid). A fuse in line wouldn't hurt though.

EDIT: super low budget way to connect the harness is using generic female spade terminals. Plug directly into the male spades on the R/R. After everything is hooked up fill the cavities in the R/R with electrical safe RTV. I work in the aerospace industry and we seal "pot" harness plugs like this all the time. We use special RTV though, that has low acid.

Checked voltage again this morning. -.10v from yesterday. I called the triumph dealer and they'd have to order the loom. They didn't want much more than $10 for it though. I'll see what I can find...

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

GPzMOD750 wrote:

Nessism wrote: The SH775 looks like the MOSFET FHXXX family of Shindengen R/R units, only it's greatly improved because it's a SERIES type R/R which protects your stator from shunted current overheat.

The Eastern Beaver connector will work but it's quite expensive. The Triumph jumper harness is much cheaper and it has the connector plugs you need to fit the R/R so you can then splice it into your existing harness from there.

I bought that one for $35. I haven't found the triumph loom on eBay yet. The dealer is in spitting distance of me I'll check to see what they want for it.

Good work.

The SH775 and FHXXX parts look almost identical, but they aren't. The FH units are very high quality, only they are a shunting R/R and the SH version is SERIES so it's better.

The chinese are knocking off these units so beware. Be sure to order one where you can verify the numbers. Failing to do so can result in purchase of a FHXXX unit or worse, a chinese knockoff.

I got a R/R that turned out to be CHINESE. Damn near ruined my alternator. Am back to using a stock R/R and will buy a good one when I can afford it.
Steve

Nessism wrote: Good work.

The SH775 and FHXXX parts look almost identical, but they aren't. The FH units are very high quality, only they are a shunting R/R and the SH version is SERIES so it's better.

The chinese are knocking off these units so beware. Be sure to order one where you can verify the numbers. Failing to do so can result in purchase of a FHXXX unit or worse, a chinese knockoff.

Well you spotted it so I'll blame you if it's a flop.that seller's ratings are off the hook and they seem to have many of them.

I ordered the loom through the dealer $10.11 out the door seemed pretty fair. He said it will take about a week.

swest wrote: I got a R/R that turned out to be CHINESE. Damn near ruined my alternator. Am back to using a stock R/R and will buy a good one when I can afford it.
Steve

If you want to get one from the same seller. It looks like he has about a half dozen listed.

swest wrote: I got a R/R that turned out to be CHINESE. Damn near ruined my alternator. Am back to using a stock R/R and will buy a good one when I can afford it.
Steve

What bike? the 550 project? I know buying used can be a gamble, but depending upon the model, you might be able to use one from a late model Ninja 500 or Vulcan 500 et al, through around 2009 or so. I think loudhvx got one from a Ninja 250 for his 550. They're basically the same as the stock KZ voltage regulators.

I got the R/R in the other day and am waiting for the loom to show up at the Triumph dealer. I now get to sort out the high beam issue on my new switches . Looks like I'm out of commission for a bit.

My low tone horn is dead too. If it ain't one thing it's a dozen others.

GPzMOD750 wrote: I got the R/R in the other day and am waiting for the loom to show up at the Triumph dealer. I now get to sort out the high beam issue on my new switches . Looks like I'm out of commission for a bit.

My low tone horn is dead too. If it ain't one thing it's a dozen others.

That's why I like to leave my bike STOCK. There are quite a few different KZ model bikes that used the same hand controls. I got one off ebay and took it apart and cleaned the insides (found a broken wire on one of the old ones). At any rate, good luck. I'm sure you will figure it out.

Nessism wrote:

GPzMOD750 wrote: I got the R/R in the other day and am waiting for the loom to show up at the Triumph dealer. I now get to sort out the high beam issue on my new switches . Looks like I'm out of commission for a bit.

My low tone horn is dead too. If it ain't one thing it's a dozen others.

That's why I like to leave my bike STOCK. There are quite a few different KZ model bikes that used the same hand controls. I got one off ebay and took it apart and cleaned the insides (found a broken wire on one of the old ones). At any rate, good luck. I'm sure you will figure it out.

I would have kept the stock switches but they don't clear the tank on these bars and I didn't want to sacrifice turning radius. I would have done it earlier but I didn't get to it before riding season. I have an extra dent and some scuffs on the tank because of it.

The Kz's had way more turning movement than any modern bike. To use clip-ons, I welded in larger stops that reduced the turning, but I never really felt like I was losing much. The only time you might notice it is maneuvering in the garage. One other advantage is that it puts a lot less stress on the wiring and cables between steering and frame. Even with the steering travel reduced, I can still use the steering lock. I just had to grind a tiny bit off of the frame stop.

Some of the 750's use the same steering stop in the frame as the 550's, so here's what I used...
The set screw is just to hold it while welding in place. Once it's in, you grind it down to the right amount of travel.

loudhvx wrote: The Kz's had way more turning movement than any modern bike. To use clip-ons, I welded in larger stops that reduced the turning, but I never really felt like I was losing much. The only time you might notice it is maneuvering in the garage. One other advantage is that it puts a lot less stress on the wiring and cables between steering and frame. Even with the steering travel reduced, I can still use the steering lock. I just hadg to grind a tiny bit off of the frame stop.

Some of the 750's use the same steering stop in the frame as the 550's, so here's what I used...
The set screw is just to hold it while welding in place. Once it's in, you grind it down to the right amount of travel.

I couldn't turn it around in a 2 car garage. Besides the electrical and throttle cable snags I'm happy with the result.