TOPIC:

swest wrote: Not doubting you. Got a link?
Steve

Steve, that is my own personal experience from working on my KZ750E. There is no link other than to a build thread I've got on another forum.

Wish I had kept the stators now because I could have sent them to anyone that doesn't believe me.

I'm asking about where to get a stator.
Steve

I bought the stator from Bike Bandit. There are a lot of different companies selling stators but I think Rick's is one of the best. They are one of the most expensive anyway.

If there is a higher load on the charging system, a more powerful stator could make you think the other stators were bad. The same could happen if the magnets of the alternator are weak or if the wires for one of the AC legs was bad, a more powerful stator could possibly make up the difference. There's probably a bunch of other possibilities I cant think of off hand.

For the time being i'd like to get more than 13v at the batt. at speed for now just so i know I'm charging. I'll get the super duper atomic stator later on.

I got one from z1parts but it developed a short because the wires touched the starter gear. It was putting out over 50v but then was down into the 30's=40's and never was the same again even though I fixed it. Seems the aftermarket parts are inferior even though they are made in Japan.
Sgteve

GPzMOD750 wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

GPzMOD750 wrote: I just checked my manual. Looks like I'm good.

Do you remember what RPM you used for the tests?

5k

The test is specified at 4000 rpm, so it's hard to say if it actually passed the open-load test.
I would have expected closer to 60-65v AC at 5000 rpm.

And, as mentioned, passing this open-load test does not confirm it is good. The test is used to confirm a bad one.

A load test is a lot more difficult to perform.

Nessism wrote: To do that no load test you need to disconnect the stator entirely and rev the engine to 5000 rpm or more. Set your meter to AC voltage too. Oh, and make that 75 volts AC, not 50. And even if you get good voltage that doesn't mean your stator is at full power. I've seen 75 volts before and the best the charging system would do is 13.7 volts.

And of course, with higher RPMs, the output would be expected to be higher than the 50v AC of the 4000 rpm test.

I measure about 70 v AC on 3-phase at 6000 rpm.

The 1-phase stator reaches over 70 vAC at 4000 rpm. (Being 1-phase, the phase has to do more work than each of the 3 in a 3-phase stator.)

I'm going to put the other stator back on. The one I tested was basically a freebie that was still attached to a cover I bought on eBay. It's most likely shit.

I think I'm actually OK. I brain farted and hooked up the R/R wires to the connector wrong. Hopefully, I didn't do damage to the R/R by running battery power between those 2 wires for a few minutes.

loudhvx wrote:

Nessism wrote: To do that no load test you need to disconnect the stator entirely and rev the engine to 5000 rpm or more. Set your meter to AC voltage too. Oh, and make that 75 volts AC, not 50. And even if you get good voltage that doesn't mean your stator is at full power. I've seen 75 volts before and the best the charging system would do is 13.7 volts.

And of course, with higher RPMs, the output would be expected to be higher than the 50v AC of the 4000 rpm test.

I measure about 70 v AC on 3-phase at 6000 rpm.

The 1-phase stator reaches over 70 vAC at 4000 rpm. (Being 1-phase, the phase has to do more work than each of the 3 in a 3-phase stator.)

Okay fine, test at 4000 rpm if you want. My comment about 75 VAC was at higher rpm, basically the saturation point for the system which is above 5000 rpm.

I've yet to hear about anyone with a bad SH775. That's not to say it's impossible though, just very unlikely. If the charging output is low first thing I'd suspect is the wiring and second is the stator.

I'm only using 4000 because that's what the manual's procedure specifies.

There is a point where increasing RPMs will decrease output under load, but with open load, I don't know if you would reach that point (where output voltage starts to decrease) before 10,000 rpm. I don't have documentation of any experiments above 6000 rpm.

Being a pulsing inductive source, the load will determine the RPM at which the output starts to drop off. The stator's impedance changes with frequency, just like any inductor.

OK

I swapped the first stator back In and ran the tests. I'm getting 66 +/-VAC @ 4000 rpm and 78 + VAC @ 5000 rpm. I hooked up the R/R and I'm getting Approx 13.5v-13.8v from 2k-5k rpm. It stops charging at approx. 1000 rpm.

I contacted the seller of the R/R and told him I was having problems. He first asked the Vin# of my vehicle. i replied that I was retrofitting to a Kawasaki and asked him if the link I sent of the bench test was kosher for this model of R/R. The reply signed by a different person was "This came off of a running machine...Thanks, "

Should I ask for a return/replacement?