TOPIC:

OK I picked up the plugs at the dealer. I looked up the Trumpet wiring diagram and pulled up my bike's wiring diagram.




i your description of where to hook up the out bound wires Nessism. The KZ has an extra wire that routes to a different set of fuses should just ignore all that and just run the lead either directly to the battery or the solenoid?

It might be more clear once I've actually pulled the old R/R but I'm a little unsure. Wiring always makes me nervous. If I add an inline fuse what size should it be?

I guess I am a little late to this party but - I used a RR from a late model Ninja 250. The wires matched and the bolt holes lined up perfectly with my battery tray. It looked almost like the same piece.

GPzMOD750 wrote: i your description of where to hook up the out bound wires Nessism. The KZ has an extra wire that routes to a different set of fuses should just ignore all that and just run the lead either directly to the battery or the solenoid?

It might be more clear once I've actually pulled the old R/R but I'm a little unsure. Wiring always makes me nervous. If I add an inline fuse what size should it be?

On my bike I fed the stator wires directly into the R/R, then the power output and ground went straight to the battery. A guy on the GS Resources that knows quite a bit about electrical stuff, and turned us all onto the superiority of SERIES R/R/s, was aghast to learn Kawasaki ran the power output straight to the battery (via the starter solenoid in some cases). This feed should be fused in some way (although I didn't do it). A 20A fuse should be fine, a 15A should even work. Again, I didn't do it, but that doesn't mean it's "right".

Thanks, maybe I'll use a fusable link or a breaker.

I'm just trying to get everything running again but I'm going to build a mounting plate under the left cover eventually. I want to fit the R/R, fuse box, headlight relays I have on the way, flasher(s) and solenoid. That way all I have to do is pull the cover and everything will be there. The old igniter is just dead weight right now so once that's out of the way there should be tons of room.

Success!

I just ran single wires with spade connectors from the loom into the original connector. I fired her up and I was getting more voltage at idle than I usually do at full speed. I didn't have the tank on so I didn't have time to run checks with a multimeter.

I was going to leave it wired that way but it started making me nervous. I left the stator wires in the connector but I ran the ground straight to the battery. An easy task since the CWS harness had 2 bullet connector points wired into it. I then ran the hot wire to a 20A breaker and then over to the solenoid.

Sometimes kawasaki fuses the output to the battery, and sometimes they don't. (Unless the diagrams have a mistake, which is common.)

The main thing you want to avoid is having the battery fused, while the reg/rec can still power the bike. If the battery fuse blows, and the bike is at high RPM, the bike will probably still run, but will lose the filtering provided by the battery. This means the bike will be running without proper regulation. This leads to light bulbs melting and other bad things.

Fuse 1 is the usual position for the main fuse. Occasionally you will see a Kz with a main fuse in Fuse 2 position or Fuse 3 position (which could be a mistake on the diagrams (Kz550H2 for example) ).
Both Fuse 1 and Fuse 2 would be a good idea in case of a short to prevent wire melting, because both the alt and battery are power sources. Fuse 1 will handle almost all situations. The only thing it won't protect against is if there is a short in the reg/rec or if the wiring between reg/rec and battery gets shorted. Fuse 2, by itself also has vulnerabilities. Both 1 and 2, together will handle everything, but 1, by itself (which is the most common setup on Kz's), will handle most situations.

Fuse 3 position should never exist. This can disconnect the battery while the bike continues to run.

loudhvx wrote: Sometimes kawasaki fuses the output to the battery, and sometimes they don't. (Unless the diagrams have a mistake, which is common.)

The main thing you want to avoid is having the battery fused, while the reg/rec can still power the bike. If the battery fuse blows, and the bike is at high RPM, the bike will probably still run, but will lose the filtering provided by the battery. This means the bike will be running without proper regulation. This leads to light bulbs melting and other bad things.

Fuse 1 is the usual position for the main fuse. Occasionally you will see a Kz with a main fuse in Fuse 2 position or Fuse 3 position (which could be a mistake on the diagrams (Kz550H2 for example) ).
Both Fuse 1 and Fuse 2 would be a good idea in case of a short to prevent wire melting, because both the alt and battery are power sources. Fuse 1 will handle almost all situations. The only thing it won't protect against is if there is a short in the reg/rec or if the wiring between reg/rec and battery gets shorted. Fuse 2, by itself also has vulnerabilities. Both 1 and 2, together will handle everything, but 1, by itself (which is the most common setup on Kz's), will handle most situations.

Fuse 3 position should never exist. This can disconnect the battery while the bike continues to run.

Thanks!

That is great diagram. I've just been looking at the factory diagram and it looks to me like there is no fusing at all between the the R/R and batt. I'll think about sneaking another fuse or breaker in your #1 position.

Is the brown wire out of the RR a "sense" wire or is it a true +12v source bypassing the switch?

It's a sense wire.
Steve

Damnit!

I put everything back together. Started the bike and I'm not getting any charge at all.

I plugged the original R/R back in and I was getting just over 12v.......

I found a quick bench test for a non shunt R/R and I'm not getting any continuity at all any way I test it.


I'll see if the seller will replace the R/R. I can't tell you how absolutely bummed I am.

The service manual calls for reving the bike to 5000 rpm and checking output at that point.

The SH775 units are bulletproof. Sounds like either your stator is bad or you don't have the R/R wired properly.

Double check this photo. To check the function of your unit connect the + and - output terminals direct to the battery. If you don't get any charging then your stator is bad.

I've checked every wire In every way possible. And have it hooked as shown. I would suspect the stator if I wasn't getting a charge with the old R/R. I do have another stator but the bench test for the SH775 failed.

Like I said. I sent the seller a message, They have about a half dozen more listed so let's see if they send me another.