TOPIC:

I'm having what appears to be some charging issues on my GPz750. I have a new battery, the stator looks newer like it had been replaced by a PO and I've upgraded my fuse box. I had some issues starting last week so I put it on the charger and it started right up. Just after that the factory V-meter showed nearly 14v at speed. A few days later it's showing barely 12v at the same rpm. It's showing about 10v not running and about 11v at idle.

What are the recommendations for voltage regulators?

About 14v at 4000 RPM. Test the out put of the leads coming out of the alternator. Should be around 50v A/C.
Batteries can have bad cells new too.
Steve

If I had a bad battery volt readings would still be 14ish at speed wouldn't it?

If you had a dead cell it would suck up all the power it could. Take the battery out, charge it and leave it sit on the bench overnight. If it is down, that's what's happening.
Steve

swest wrote: If you had a dead cell it would suck up all the power it could. Take the battery out, charge it and leave it sit on the bench overnight. If it is down, that's what's happening.
Steve

Will do.

If you need a R/R get a SH775 Shindengen. It's a "series" type and helps protect your stator. Polaris installed them on a bunch of different model RTV's so they are readily available on the used market, or get a new one. They are cheaper than most other (inferior) shunt type R/R's. Triumph sells a little pigtail harness to go with it so you can easily install it on your bike.

Triumph part No.T2500676 LINK LEAD, REGULATOR - $9.46
Polaris part No.4012941 REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C - $73.94

Nessism wrote: If you need a R/R get a SH775 Shindengen. It's a "series" type and helps protect your stator. Polaris installed them on a bunch of different model RTV's so they are readily available on the used market, or get a new one. They are cheaper than most other (inferior) shunt type R/R's. Triumph sells a little pigtail harness to go with it so you can easily install it on your bike.

Triumph part No.T2500676 LINK LEAD, REGULATOR - $9.46
Polaris part No.4012941 REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C - $73.94

Mine must be acting up.... Finally after nearly 40 years.
I'm seeing 15.2v at 3800rpm now.
It's boiling measurable water out of the battery every 500 miles.
How and where do you install this new R/R?

I made a bracket and installed it under the battery on my 750.

When going the mosfet route, you'll probably want to get a pigtail from a ZX600 et al that will plug into it. or get the connectors n stuff at oregon motorcycle or eastern beaver etc. I was going to install a mosfet, but went with a voltage regulator from a late model Ninja 500 (credit to loudhvx). The connector was reversed, so installed new open barrel terminals & i did some proper crimps with an open barrel crimper. pretty easy. the stock connector crumbled, so I installed a new one. I got most of the electricals from cycleterminal.com, but I think Z1Enterprises has the stuff as well.

Thanks, I was going to ask if that trumpet loom needed to be spliced or if it was plug and play. I had to splice in the CWS fuse box then put a ring connector on a lead from the original regulator to the solenoid.

I checked my voltage this morning before I left with a multi meter, 12.48v . I took a 2 hr. canyon carver yesterday so it seems to be charging enough over that amount of time. I'll keep checking it for the rest of the week with my shorter commute. I'm running my high beam during the day for visibility. I figure I should get this worked out before I get my road and running lights on.

The original reg/recs seem to fail in a manner you describe. Initially they will put out the proper 14.3v or so, but then on long rides they will slowly reduce their output. It's hard to troubleshoot that type of failure since it seems to be working fine at first. I had to strap a meter onto the tank and watch the voltage drop, during a ride, over the course of 30 minutes to an hour.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThe SH775 looks like the MOSFET FHXXX family of Shindengen R/R units, only it's greatly improved because it's a SERIES type R/R which protects your stator from shunted current overheat.

The Eastern Beaver connector will work but it's quite expensive. The Triumph jumper harness is much cheaper and it has the connector plugs you need to fit the R/R so you can then splice it into your existing harness from there.