TOPIC:

missionkz wrote: I can't think of a good way to hold all the dimensions perfectly when clamping down to welding bench

What about bolting it on to the head in place, and then welding it....or tacking it at least. Make a protective rain coat for any flying debris. Like getting a filling at the dentist.

I have one if you want

I like the idea of welding it, and then I don't. Its just the bridge. If the epoxy comes undone...ill dremel the bridge out, as its be stated that it really isn't necessary.

Horse hockey. It is the stay for the cam. It doesn't have dowels on both bolt holes. If you get another one, you can try the beer can trick or something like it. I'd just have it welded and be done with it. JEEZ.
Steve

The epoxy would probably be at the most risk when you are at full engine temp and at full tilt on the throttle. If that much is true- you have the possibility of a giant piece chipping off when the epoxy breaks loose and completely lunching the engine.
I completely agree with Steve on this one- either weld it or replace it. (I'm not even sure if you can replace it, being that the cam caps are machines simultaneously with the head)

Not to mention- there is an absolute danger factor here.
If that thing comes loose at full tilt on a 3 lane highway and locks up your rear wheel...
It's not worth it. Get it welded.
I'd even get it x-rayed.
Having that cap break at full speed is a scary thought.

I told the story of using beer can shims to raise my cams because I didn't have shims after a valve job. I was desperate being out here in the sticks 60 miles away from Kawasaki dealer. Even then I was on pins and needles riding it until I could fix it right. This as well as that epoxy is a temporary fix. Not advisable.
Steve

Well I already jb'd the sob days ago so there is nothing I can do now unfortunately. Next question is about the end plugs, ive read mixed answers on wiping the area dry....then with rtv silicone...then without...along with the valve cover. What performs the best?

Garbosh wrote: Well I already jb'd the sob days ago so there is nothing I can do now unfortunately. Next question is about the end plugs, ive read mixed answers on wiping the area dry....then with rtv silicone...then without...along with the valve cover. What performs the best?

That's what I did 35 years ago and the silly thing is still bone dry after many "on and offs" for valve lash checks and other minor repairs and all that rot.
I've also only had to replace the valve cover gasket once in those same years for some reason... it just never leaked anywhere either. Lucky? I don't know.

Seems consensus is general variations of this:

1) Clean the area
2) Apply gasket sealer to the curved portions only (I used permatex aviation with good results)
3) Install the cam end plugs
4) Install (tighten down) the valve cover with no gasket for 24 hours
5) Re-install the valve cover with the gasket. (here I added a bit of aviation just over the top of the plugs, but not sure if that is needed)

Hi Garbosh.

Any update? Does the epoxy hold?

Good thread to update on once and a while.

Cheers
Chris

Sorry everyone ive had to put things off as I got a new apartment and im still in the process of getting all back together and tuning the carbs better so I can drive it. Im going to ride it for awhile like im breaking in a clutch or something. Baby it. Im hoping to get everything squared away this weekend.

Ok sorry everyone for taking so long. So I was able to jump my bike today, the battery is weak, got it going but almost instantly I heard a sharp crack and some pinging around, I killed switched it and thought, great that piece I jb'd broke after all. So I went and took the vlave cover off and it was fine. Searched around some more.....and turns out 2 off my valve...caps seat things...they retain the valve shim...had seized up and one actually broke into a bunch of pieces... great... probably got dried out some while taking forever with this project. Great. So ive now taken the the engine mostly apart to see if any other issues were in the engine. Rings on pistons look good, so does each cylinder. No scratches or anything, the piston top are good, they don't look like they connected with any valves. So now im pretty much going to tear the head completely down and put it back together. One issue, im having a very hard time getting those two cups out from those valves. Any ideas? suggestions? should I just try to find a new head and say F this one?