TOPIC:

I don't get why you cant just find another and bolt it down, you know what I mean...if it comes off simply by bolts, in theory you should be able to just get another and bolt it in....this really pisses me off. If I am going to have to take the head off I might as well just tear the motor apart and replace the gaskets, rings, etc. All because some stupid little camshaft bracket.

id love to just jb weld it...but lets be honest with how well thatll hold. I mean I guess I have used it for high heat applications and such. Maybe if I prep the surface real well and such. Cake it on, especially the top, smooth out the underside...what do I got to loose right, either this or buy a new damn head. Ill try it and get back.

The four bolts hold the four halves of the two camshaft bearings in place... the alignment with the the other cap and trunnion on the other side of the head is fairly critical. When the head was made, the boring bar went all the way through both caps to make sure they are in near perfect parallel alignment so the camshaft is not being tweak out of alignment with the bottom half of those cam bearing trunnions.

That's a lot of fancy words haha. Ill be doing the JB Weld route. The two pieces fit together perfect like a puzzle so that's good. Ive put a bead of jb in the crack, squeezed them together, and with a rubber band tight around it, itll be a good amount a pressure keeping it together while curing. I then used a wet paper towel to remove the jb flashing on the cam side, as that is the most crucial. On the other side a put a layer of jb all over the top for extra support. Ill wait until Thursday to touch it up with a dremel or a sanding block and prey it works. Im pretty confident it will.

How recent the last time the valves were adjusted, and carburetors synched? :huh

Garbosh wrote: That's a lot of fancy words haha. Ill be doing the JB Weld route. The two pieces fit together perfect like a puzzle so that's good. Ive put a bead of jb in the crack, squeezed them together, and with a rubber band tight around it, itll be a good amount a pressure keeping it together while curing. I then used a wet paper towel to remove the jb flashing on the cam side, as that is the most crucial. On the other side a put a layer of jb all over the top for extra support. Ill wait until Thursday to touch it up with a dremel or a sanding block and prey it works. Im pretty confident it will.

You might luck out.... don't get the bearing inserts mixed up... actually, they may be damaged now... have to see a picture,
And make sure you understand the low torque limits of those cap screws.... it is inch pounds.... as in "kinda tight with an open end 5" long 10mm wrench" not super tight!!!
That might be how it was cracked in the first place, during a clumsy assembly.... by not moving back and forth both sides of the camshaft when tightening them down.
You are compressing valve springs when doing it and one side, if torqued down crooked or one whole side by itself, you could get them jammed and maybe crack a bearing cap....
Note, the left sides of the cams have those two parallel rings.... yours has them too and if they hit the bearing cap by mishandling the cams during installation.... I can hear the snap crackle pop.....


Not much clearance under the caps for those "rings".... make sure you gobs are on top and not under the cap center.

I'd take it to a welding shop and have it clamped down on a flat surface and weld it. The bolts are what holds it in. The bearing cap keeps the cam from moving from side to side. Make sure the threads are good.
Steve

Garbosh wrote: That's a lot of fancy words haha. Ill be doing the JB Weld route. The two pieces fit together perfect like a puzzle so that's good. Ive put a bead of jb in the crack, squeezed them together, and with a rubber band tight around it, itll be a good amount a pressure keeping it together while curing. I then used a wet paper towel to remove the jb flashing on the cam side, as that is the most crucial. On the other side a put a layer of jb all over the top for extra support. Ill wait until Thursday to touch it up with a dremel or a sanding block and prey it works. Im pretty confident it will.

I am pretty confident it wont.

Epoxy is a wonderful thing. I buy and use it by the gallons for boats. But on metal, it will not have any fiber to "wick in", like in wood or fiberglass, to hold its bond.

I hope it works for you, But I would keep looking for a new head for your bike.

It can be welded by someone that knows what he's doing.
Steve

Garbosh wrote: Well..might have figured it out.

It appears that you cam cap is broken in the bridge, not the saddle. If this is true take a look at the link below. Basically, it says that is not a big deal and comments on how to address it. Ed

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/591036-82...camshaft-caps#605498

650ed wrote:

Garbosh wrote: Well..might have figured it out.

It appears that you cam cap is broken in the bridge, not the saddle. If this is true take a look at the link below. Basically, it says that is not a big deal and comments on how to address it. Ed

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/591036-82...camshaft-caps#605498

WOW. Good to know. Epoxy away!

Yea the epoxy is all dried up and good to go. just need to sand the extra and re install. I will be waiting on a new valve cover gasket and end plugs soooooo it probably wont be running for another week as I will be ordering them of ebay. I just really hope this was the issue that was causing the noise/vibration and this fixes it.