TOPIC:

gotta be 9.250 to fit in the kz 900/1000 frame.

leon

Thanks. I get that. 9 1/4" I don't have my wheel off so I was asking the inside distance at the rear axle. I think your cap idea makes the most sense here. Cutting it down the middle would only call for shortening the inner race bar and be the easiest to weld back up. It is a mono shock arm so I would have to cut off the mount for that and add shock brackets and a brake stay bracket. My bench is out side so I'm waiting for more light to take some shots of the whole Magilla. My old Kodac takes lousy close ups so I'm going to use my bike can for a short clip. More to come.
Steve

Leon did you mill the tophat's out of aluminium or steel? I am considering milling a bushings of my old pivot tube and press then into the new 20mm pivot tube, one on each side. But you solution is really nice and the tophat's will keep the seals in place.
/ A

Makes more sense than what I was thinking.
Steve

scubaanders wrote: Leon did you mill the tophat's out of aluminium or steel? I am considering milling a bushings of my old pivot tube and press then into the new 20mm pivot tube, one on each side. But you solution is really nice and the tophat's will keep the seals in place.
/ A

i used 6061-t6 aluminum.
trying to drill or bore long things like pivot bushing is very hard to do and keep the tolerances to something usable.
so i developed the tophat bushing to get away from long bushings.
when in all reality you only need the bushings in the ends to match the od of the pivot bolt.
i've done zx and fz1 arms that way with good success.



leon

That's the set up. I'll send you a PM about the price of the top hat bushings.
Steve

Sorry Steve, not my meaning to hi-jack your thread. . . . .

Leon, drilling that long is out, it will not come out clean.

We are toying with the idea of taking the old pivot tube that has an ID of 16mm and an OD of 22mm and mill down the OD to ~20.01. Cut it in to two 20-25 mm long bushings and press them into the new pivot tube and secure them with a weld.

But that method depends on how hard the old pivot is hardened. If it’s too hard to mill our backup plan is to buy a piece of precision steel tube with a ID 16 and mill the outside to ~20.01 and go with that.

The beauty of your top-hats is that then we don’t need to fit a stopper onto the swingarm studs inside the frame which was a part of our original plan.

/A

No problem. I started this thread to explore the possibilities. Leon has the best solution as far as I can see.
This damn HP lap top wants to learn how to fly. Trying to make a movie clip to show the arm. Kept going back to a old vid I did weeks ago. No way to delete them. I found a way around it and am uploading it now.
I swore I'd never buy a HP product again then I bought this one for the bike. I miss my old IBM Think Pad.
More to come.
Steve

Took forever to upload. Damn HP lap top kept going to sleep mode. Had to go into settings and set it at never. I've had to undo just about everything they loaded onto this thing. Stations coming on, not letting me install things I want, you name it.
Anyway here's the clips. They're short so it shouldn't have taken so long.
Let me know what you guys think.
Steve

the side legs and crossmember where the linkage mounts are aluminum extrusions,way stronger than cast.
thing looks suspicously like the zx6/636 arms.except your arm has a solid steel center bushing/race.
whereas the 6/636 arms have an aluminum center bushing with separate race pressed on.



so what does that arm measure across the pivot?

leon

It's 10 1/4". If I cut 1" from the center it should right both at the pivot and the axle. Problem is it will be too wide to fit inbetween my muffler mounts. I would have to do something about that.
Steve

swest wrote: Problem is it will be too wide to fit inbetween my muffler mounts. I would have to do something about that.

Just like the zx6 arm and to get that to fit without cutting my footrest brackets took some heat and a jack. Something I know you said you didnt wanna do to your z1 frame