General help, building electrical harness

Wookie58 wrote:

Unfortunately not the crimper you have is for "insulated" closed barrel connectors denoted by the coloured spots on the side) you will need to buy an "open barrel" crimper (they are around 20 euro's for a reasonable set)

I see
Do you have any recommendation on amazon or ebay ?
I see the connector kit have a range off   22-16AWG
 

Something like this will do the job as you already have a set for insulated connectors

I have some more questions

1. When you pulling cables from rear to front, for the switches, light etc... you want to drop of some cabels to horn and the coils example how do you do that if you are not using tapes, but sleeve? Do you need to have two parallel sleeves than?

I guess it easier to use tapes, but modern sleeves looks more modern to use?

2. I`m planning to run one or two ground cables from rear to front, but what option do I have to collect all ground cabels in rear, I also want it to looks nice to have many ground cabels on the battery is not looking nice... Maybe I can collect on the start relay.... and is the best way to collect the ground cable using butt connectors?

gordone wrote:

I have some more questions

1. When you pulling cables from rear to front, for the switches, light etc... you want to drop of some cabels to horn and the coils example how do you do that if you are not using tapes, but sleeve? Do you need to have two parallel sleeves than? Take a look at the diagram and instructions below (this is how I would do it) 

I guess it easier to use tapes, but modern sleeves looks more modern to use? Agreed

2. I`m planning to run one or two ground cables from rear to front, but what option do I have to collect all ground cabels in rear, I also want it to looks nice to have many ground cabels on the battery is not looking nice... Maybe I can collect on the start relay the only ground on the starter relay is a chassis ground on the mounting bolt.... and is the best way to collect the ground cable using butt connectors? You can splice your grounds to a single cable (12 -14 awg dependent on current) using the method I showed you previously (the splice can be sleeved into the main harness as the factory do) this would give you a single ground to find a home for, if you don't want to run it to the battery you could go the the ground point on the motor that the main battery cable is grounded to

 

At the end of the day making it "nice" isn't easy but it is worth the effort

Nice

Do you remove the insulation (for the part that will be inside the bucket) on the main ground cable when you splice out from it or do you cut the main ground cable where you want to splice out?

Don't touch the main ground cable, your splice should have a "ring terminal" that bolts to the same point as the main ground on the motor

Thank you

What about fuses?

The m-unit have built in production each cuircuit. I was thinking one main fuse between battery and the m-unit?

On diagram I have found on google, seems like power from the battery to starter solonoid go straight without fuse? 

gordone wrote:

Thank you

What about fuses?

The m-unit have built in production each cuircuit. I was thinking one main fuse between battery and the m-unit? I believe the instructions for the "M"-unit recommend a 20a fuse in the main supply (individual circuits are protected by "thermal trips" inside the unit)

On diagram I have found on google, seems like power from the battery to starter solonoid go straight without fuse? Starter supply is only fused on current vehicles (due to the electronic technology used to prevent surges) the starter draws upwards of 80amps on cold start so fusing needs specific types of fuses not used on motorcycles (to the best of my knowledge) 

Than you again

Then I only have one more question for now

A shortcut in the recitider is not protected by the M-unit, since it`s connected directly to the battery, before the main 40 amp fuse.

Is there any good reason to have a fuse against recitider also ?

gordone wrote:

Than you again

Then I only have one more question for now

A shortcut in the recitider is not protected by the M-unit, since it`s connected directly to the battery, before the main 40 amp fuse.

Is there any good reason to have a fuse against recitider also ?

Any "un-fused" consumer has the potential to be a fire risk - there is nothing stopping you running the regulator/rectifier output through a 30a fuse before the battery (some later bikes had this from factory)

Wookie58 wrote:

gordone wrote:

Than you again

Then I only have one more question for now

A shortcut in the recitider is not protected by the M-unit, since it`s connected directly to the battery, before the main 40 amp fuse.

Is there any good reason to have a fuse against recitider also ?

Any "un-fused" consumer has the potential to be a fire risk - there is nothing stopping you running the regulator/rectifier output through a 30a fuse before the battery (some later bikes had this from factory)

I think I will do that, since the rectifier is the only "un-fused" circuit accept for start motor rest will be protected behind the M-unit as I see it.

Wookie58 wrote:

I have put a sample together after work which might make it a bit clearer (4-1) if you choose to solder then apply the heat to the centre of the tube until the solder will melt and get drawn into the tube while heating the tube (not melting the solder with the iron)

Are you putting the cable in the but before you apply heat and solider or do you heat up the but and fill it will solider before you insert the cables?

I have it know by adding solider to the but first, but are not sure if I apply enougf solider….