TOPIC:

Is your green red n yellow to a connector or single wires?

I don't have it with me. I might stop by it later today though and I can check.

I think I may have found a problem.
No continuoty from the white connector black wire under left side cover up to the 6 pin connector black wire
to the tach.
When it says female or male, does that refer to the whole connector or each individual blade connection?
For instance in this pic it is male blades in a female connector.

this pic goes woth previous post about male n female

Ah, yes, if you look at image 10-7 in the FSM page you posted, you'll see the red, green, and yellow wires are internal to the combination meter. That's why it wouldn't show up in a wiring diagram. It's part of a component instead of the external wiring of the component. So you might have to open the unit to get to those wires.

I followed the tests in section 10 for the tach/voltmeter. Just to recap (mostly in case someone is following along without the manual)
Test1: Inspect rubber dampers, connections, etc. Kind of just a general inspecion of the circuit and tach unit.

Test2: Check for power at the 6 pin connector (in the headlight housing) between brown and black/yellow. It should show battery voltage with the key on. Connector diagram shown on the left of this picture. Mine showed 11.6V with battery at 12.4V


Test3: Check the signal between the black and brown wires. Engine off should show 0V. Engine running should show between 2-4V. Mine showed 2.3V

Test4: Check continuity at the switch connector inside the back of the gauges. You get access to this just like you were changing the bulbs. there are 4 screws holding the gauge cover on. There is a 3 pin connector that you need to check continuity between the pins. Its on the tach side. I had to disconnect the 3 wires that supply the tach to be able to un-plug it. The chart is shown to the right of this picture. I couldn't tell which side of the connector it was probing. I checked both sides and neither followed the chart so I think my switch is bad.

If you still have access to the Green, Red , and Yellow wires you could use a jumper wire to verify the switch is bad.
Disconnect the wires from the switch.
Start the bike.
Connect the Green and Red wires together to verify the tach
Connect the Red and Yellow wires together to verify the voltmeter.

It also appears the you have a voltage drop on your brown wire circuit. It could be in the ground wire(yellow/black) or on the positive wire(brown).
Awwww crap.
Sorry Dan.
I was looking at Matt's post.
I'm about to go to bed. I'll look at the schematic tomorrow.
We'll figure this thing out.

Ok..I've had my ice cream and coffee.
We'll check for voltage drops on the three circuits leading to the gauge.

Meter DC V
Bike running
All connectors connected

red meter probe on positive battery post(on the lead portion battery not the terminal)
black meter probe on the negative battery post (on the lead portion of the battery not the terminal)
Note reading

Move the red probe to the brown wire at the 9 pin connector in green box on attached schematic(back probe the connector on the gauge side not the battery side).
Note reading
Press the voltmeter/tach button
Note reading

Red probe on positive battery post
Black probe on black/yellow wire at the 9 pin connector in green box (back probe on gauge side of connector)
Note voltage

Select the TACH portion of the gauge
Red probe on positive battery post
Black probe on black wire coming off of coil in pink box
Note voltage
Move black probe to the black wire on the 9 wire connector in the green box(back probe gauge side of connector)
Note voltage..

These reading are to verify all of your wires and connections are good leading up to the gauge.
Note voltage

Thanks for the reply.
I will look into this tommorow.
What exactly do you mean by "lead portion battery, not the terminal"
Also I will have to see if I have a comparable schematic in my manual, the one you posted is to blurry.
As you can probably notice, electronics is not my strong suit.
DAN

tthunderdan wrote: Thanks for the reply.
I will look into this tommorow.
What exactly do you mean by "lead portion battery, not the terminal"The part of the battery that you connect the battery cable to. By putting the probe on the post you can check the battery cable's connection to the battery.
Also I will have to see if I have a comparable schematic in my manual, the one you posted is to blurry. sounds good. yeah, that was all I could find as far as schematics.


As you can probably notice, electronics is not my strong suit.No worries. We'll walk you through it.
DAN

Post a copy of your schematic if possible. I have a feeling the one I attached is slightly different.

The 9 pin connector I mentioned above looks to be a 6 pin connector instead according to Matt's photo.
So just substitute the 6 pin connector for when I say 9 pin connector.
Photo:M_a_t_t
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Does the engine run ok? My KZ1000P's tachometer bounces around wildly, even when the RPMs are quite obviously steady. I'll giving it a little bit of gas in neutral to have it at about 2k RPM and the tachometer bounces around randomly.

I'm pretty sure it's due to a problem I found when trying to fix what I suspected to be electrical issues with either the alternator, voltage regulator, or both... I was having erratic acceleration and backfiring. When I pulled the alternator cover off to check the stator, it turned out several of the rotor's magnets are severaly damaged, one and a half of them pulverized into dust.

I've got a new rotor coming in the mail, but figured I'd ask in case you're also having an issue with uneven acceleration and backfires. Cuz if so, you might have a bad alternator or voltage regulator.

thanks for the reply
I know the stator can cause issues like I am having, I just recently replaced stator, regulator, and battery on my spectre.
The KZ is running fine, charging, starting rite up.
From what I've seen so far on the kz bouncing tach, inop voltmeter is pointing me to an issue in the tach itself