Innovate LM-2 voltage issues

Anybody used an Innovate LM-1 or 2 on a KZ? Found a voltage problem after installation. I have it wired to the coil feed circuit. Coils are now powered by a relay. Fully charged battery voltage at 12.4 volts. Dips down to almost 12v with the ignition on (most of it from the headlight). Then you add the voltage drop from the battery, through the ignition switch (about .3v drop), kill switch, and you wind up with about 11.5v with the key on at the LM-2 unit. 

I either get an E9 trouble code due to low voltage, or the O2 sensor heater times out. Never getting an air/fuel reading. Can correct by hooking up a charger to boost voltage, or disconnect headlight bulb to eliminate that lost voltage.  

t

Could be a weak battery = E9 trouble code
Have you try to add a jump start battery to hold/compensate the voltage drop? 

Brand new Yuasa fully charged battery. I can add a charger to boost voltage and make it work, or disconnect the headlight and remove its loss of voltage to make it work.

I've read lots on complaints on the same issues on cars. I think my issue boils down to two things: One is the Innovate ECU shuts down and sets an E9 trouble code at about 11.5V. Meanwhile most automotive ECUs function all the way down to 9.5v.

The second is with a bike battery (220cca) draw from the lights pulls voltage down much more than on say a 550cca car battery. 

I know the voltage drop through the ignition switch circuit is the final straw that gets me down to 11.5v. I've eliminated all connectors, new kill switch,  and cleaned the ignition switch contacts. So this is as good as it gets.

Scirocco wrote: Could be a weak battery = E9 trouble code
Have you try to add a jump start battery to hold/compensate the voltage drop? 

Have you used Innovate on your bike?

VTEC wrote:
Have you used Innovate on your bike?
No not jet but maybe in the near future. I would try to give your Innovate LM-2 temporary an independent electrically decoupled 12 Volts power source battery circuit.

I have a LM-2 that i plan to hook up to the bike for tuning once its back together.  . hopefully i wont have this problem.
On the australian bikes the headlight can be turned  off with the right hand  switch gear.. so i wont have that voltage drop to deal with.

Could you just pull the lighting fuse out then replace once the bike is running. I know it might be a pain But since the LM2 is a tuning tool and not a bling gauge it wont be connected permanently. well not in my case

Hi VTEC,
Old habit from long ago.  We run a timing light from a separate 12v battery than the bike being tuned.  Assures clean 12vDC power.  Noise from reg/recs can cause false triggers (flashes) on some lights.

 Can you run the Innovate device on a good standalone battery?


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Need to ride and tune by air/fuel under load, so a stationary battery won't work. A kill switch for the headlight is a thought. But I think I'm gonna end up adding another relay and hooking the LM-2 directly to the battery. The LM-2 is a temporary device for tuning, but I plan on installing an air/fuel gauge when done. So I figure I might as well get the wiring correct now. 

Gonna call Innovate tech today. I'll let you know what they say. 

I have the unit strapped at the handlebars, and a great location for the O2 just after the collector on my Kerker where no one can see it.

Not much help from tech support. They say it should function all the way down to about 8 volts, but it doesn't. And it kinda contradicts what I've been reading about similar complaints. They said send it in to test, but I bought it more than a year ago (even though this is the first time out of the box) so I have to pay any repairs.

For now I'm gonna wire it to get it functional and go for a ride. They readings seemed accurate when I first ran it.

I've got an LM1 here and I hooked it to a separate battery rather than bikes system. I strapped a small box to the back of the bike and shoved the battery in there. 

The LM1 is also equally as picky for operating voltage but only when warming the O2 sensor. Just for hooking to a computer it's fine with 9V.

Compgeke wrote: I've got an LM1 here and I hooked it to a separate battery rather than bikes system. I strapped a small box to the back of the bike and shoved the battery in there. 

The LM1 is also equally as picky for operating voltage but only when warming the O2 sensor. Just for hooking to a computer it's fine with 9V.

Mine I get the E9 code below 11.5v. Just above that no code, but it won't fully heat the sensor. Closer to 12v and everything works. And I'm checking the voltage at the OEM ignition coil feed from the ignition switch at the LM-2. So this is after the voltage drop through the ignition switch and kill switch, not battery voltage. 

The way I have it wired now it works with the headlight disconnected. Gonna ride and tune like that for now. If I get a permanent gauge, and have the same issue, I'll see if a relay straight to the battery helps.