Regulator Rectifier

Does it still run hot with no load on it?
Steve

Yes, idles at about 1K. Only loads on would be headlamp, tail lamp, & whatever backlighting would be on for the gauges.

You state " I have 13.8V at idle & 14.5V at 5K"

Take a look at your manual; I believe you will find that is the perfect voltage. The regulator is engineered to prevent the voltage from exceeding 15v. As long as yours is not exceeding that it is working properly. These systems operate a bit differently than those on a car. Ed

daveo wrote:

FNGCOC wrote: Uh Oh!!! I forgot to mention it's an 82 Kz1100 A2 shaft.

Sorry all.

Same bike as mine!
Since changing to a Ricks unit, I'm running 13.7V. while cruising. The Ricks regulator rectifier doesn't have the brown wire, and (for some reason) corrected my overcharging problem. It was recommended by the fine folks at Z1 Enterprises...call and discuss the problem you have with them.

Your voltage is low. Should be about 1 volt higher. Often this is due to voltage loss in the wiring.

Nessism wrote:

daveo wrote:

FNGCOC wrote: Uh Oh!!! I forgot to mention it's an 82 Kz1100 A2 shaft.

Sorry all.

Same bike as mine!
Since changing to a Ricks unit, I'm running 13.7V. while cruising. The Ricks regulator rectifier doesn't have the brown wire, and (for some reason) corrected my overcharging problem. It was recommended by the fine folks at Z1 Enterprises...call and discuss the problem you have with them.

Your voltage is low. Should be about 1 volt higher. Often this is due to voltage loss in the wiring.

+1 If mine was only charging at 13.7v at cruising rpm I would start troubleshooting. Mine charges at about 14.7-14.9v at 4000 rpm, and that is what the specs call for. The cutoff is 15v. At one time mine was charging at lower voltage, and I discovered I had a bad diode in the rectifier, so I replaced the rectifier (mine is separate from the regulator) and now it charges properly. Ed

Yup, wires get old just like me.
Steve

Ha!! We do all get old! My body now has several "tired splices".
That's why it's all forgiveable.

Put one probe of the voltmeter on the + battery post and the other on the + output wire from your R/R and check voltage. If you are getting more than .25 volts you have losses in your harness. Repeat the same process on the negative side as well.

swest wrote: Yup, wires get old just like me.
Steve

:huh: My GPS shows 13.7 to 14.0 volts, depending on engine rpms. The battery does seem to be getting a good charge.
How much could the Dynatek 2000 account for a lower voltage reading, as well as the Lowrance GPS that I use to monitor (accurate) speed, time, travel heading, and voltage?
I do notice when switching the headlight from low to high beam, one-tenth volt drops off the reading.

Nessism wrote: Put one probe of the voltmeter on the + battery post and the other on the + output wire from your R/R and check voltage. If you are getting more than .25 volts you have losses in your harness. Repeat the same process on the negative side as well.

Should this test be performed while the key is off? Please explain the "negative side" test, where to connect the probes.

I believe he's talking about a "Voltage Drop Test". One end of meter from posi cable at battery & other end at posi feed (same wire) at R/R. Then again with one end of meter at negative batt cable and other meter end at ground wire at R/R.
It's a good way to verify current carrying capacity of a specific circuit.
Sometimes continuity test don't always work as 1 strand of copper in a multi strand copper core wire will show good continuity but have poor ability to handle current loads.

Test can be done key on or off.