TOPIC:

I've got my carbs off right now for cleaning. They were a bear to remove, and I'm not looking forward to putting them back on. I'm wondering what tricks (if any) you guys use to get them in.

KZ1000, stock carbs, stock airbox.

Thx.

a little lube on the rubbers makes them slide in a lot easier;) try some oil or vaseline.....and keep your minds out of the gutter guys:laugh:
Scott

Skyman wrote:

I've got my carbs off right now for cleaning. They were a bear to remove, and I'm not looking forward to putting them back on. I'm wondering what tricks (if any) you guys use to get them in.

KZ1000, stock carbs, stock airbox.

Thx.

Here's what worked for me -- no longer dread the removal or installation of carb bank on the KZ900 --was amazed how hard, brittle and unpliable the originals became over the years, and crack and chip on removal -- shouldn't take more than seven minutes from walking into the gargage until the carb bank is sitting on the bench (realize others here are faster so won't be betting pinks) -- and this includes maneuvering around oil cooler hoses -- took a little longer to reinstall, but is not at all unpleasent absent the hassle with "hard as rock" boots. The new boots are relatively simple to install -- just apply some silicone and twist them into the appropriate airbox holes (they are clearly marked "up" and "left" and "right").

These are "inner tube" soft and pliable:

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=303

Sorry if this sounds like a sales pitch, but it's true -- Honest Injun -- makes for a much happier camper.

Was also nice having an extra long phillips to reach and loosen the inside clamp screws on the manifold mounts. Completely unscrew the rear clamps and carefully spread them enough to remove thereby avoiding interference with loosening the rear boots (they bend open easily for removal and close together easily when later reinstalled).

Okay to employ a wooden dowel, 1x2 or non-metallic whatever to carefully lever the carb bank from the manifold (after clamps loosened and boots disconnected). Also don't forget to disconnect the throttle cable ends from the carbs -- easiest to re-connect just before re-inserting carb bank into the manifolds. As a personal preference, I install the inside boot clamps with the screws on top facing the outside (for easier access), and the outside boot clamp screws on the bottom per stock configuration.

Of course, the fuel tank should be removed at the outset for the entire process of carb bank removal and replacement. With carbs removed, suggest placing a towel over the manifolds to protect from insects, etc., until reinstallation of the carb bank.

Next on my wish list is a new airbox for the Z1 (no separate intake boots).

Hope you will soon be anxiously looking forward to removing and replacing the carbs.

one more thing, if they are cold, heat them up with a hair dryer(try to keep from using the torches:woohoo: )

77KZ650 wrote:

a little lube on the rubbers makes them slide in a lot easier;) try some oil or vaseline.....and keep your minds out of the gutter guys:laugh:
Scott

HEY...I RESEMBLE that remark!

Yes...lube them up good,and yes...heat also.
Silicone spray works well too.
A second set of hands is without adoubt,very useful too.

OR...GET PODS

Sandy wrote:

77KZ650 wrote:

a little lube on the rubbers makes them slide in a lot easier;) try some oil or vaseline.....and keep your minds out of the gutter guys:laugh:
Scott

HEY...I RESEMBLE that remark!

Yes...lube them up good,and yes...heat also.
Silicone spray works well too.
A second set of hands is without adoubt,very useful too.

OR...GET PODS

All the above, plus a bunch of Patton's tips as well, but I use a heat gun on "low" setting and spray the livin' piss out of the boots with Armor All.

While the boots are off, I let 'em soak in a small pan of Armor all and flip 'em like soft-boiled eggs every so often. By the time I'm ready to put 'em back on, they're nice and soft - barely require any heat to increase the pliability.

Not sure if the boots on mine are the originals, but the are OEM, and they've been there for nearly 10 years while I've owned it. Never had a problem using that method...

Thanks for all the tips, guys.

I got one more for ya! 1st pray that your boots from the airbox are relatively still soft. then what I did was put on the boots on the head first, then put in the carburetor, all of this while the boots from the airbox are off the bike then you can put on the boots from the inside of the airbox. Pushing them through the airbox can be simpler with some dawn or something.

Hey Everyone. I found out that the service manual is a big help. You can take certain screws out of the battery, and air boxes on some models and slide the airbox back, with the ducts still attached to it.

KZ1100 Spectre with "Tom Sudman" racing carbs.

Post edited by: Speedy427red, at: 2006/12/01 16:15