TOPIC:

I was hoping the next time I posted something it would be to say that there was another KZ on the road. Unfortunately I can't . Everything seemed to be comming along great. Got the bike running, idle stablized at 1K w/choke off, reved great. I took it out and rode it around the neighborhood never getting above 20mph or 2Krpm. I then took it out on a road I could go a little bit faster. Rode great on flat and downhill but when I tried to go uphill, faster than 2K rpm, putting some load on it, it would bog down and sputter like it wasn't getting gas. When I lowered the rpm to 2K it would chug uphill. Found the inline gas filter I installed was damaged and when the rpm's went up, it was sucking air. Put a straight fuel line and started her right up. Idled great for awhile and then started to die. Then it started pouring gas out of the pods. From reading previous posts I've figured out that something was preventing the float valve from closing. I've got the carbs apart and have pulled the valves and cleaned them and set the float height (about 19.1mm w/o the gasket, spec is 18.6). It seems almost impossible to bend that tang w/o going over or under a bit. I figure this should be close enough since they were working before I replaced the fuel line. I just wanted to know if there is anything else I should do before I put them back together and reinstall? Sorry this has been such a long post for such a short question:blush:
Thanks
Ron
Here's my most recent photo:)

Post edited by: ronjones, at: 2006/10/05 19:43

If your float needle valves have metal tips you can try using a real fine grade valve lapping compound and lapping them into the seats.
If the float needle valves have plastic tips, then replacing them is the only solution that I am aware of.

Are carb kits available for the M and K models?

I see you have the pic thing figured out

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/10/04 22:06

steell wrote:

If your float needle valves have metal tips you can try using a real fine grade valve lapping compound and lapping them into the seats.
If the float needle valves have plastic tips, then replacing them is the only solution that I am aware of.

Are carb kits available for the M and K models?

I see you have the pic thing figured out <br><br>Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/10/04 22:06

The valves are metal, steell, and I put new ones in when I rebuilt the carbs, so there shouldn't be anything wrong w/them. I'm not sure what blocked the valve, I didn't see anything obvious when I opened them up. I'm not sure what you mean about "lapping them into the seats" When I wet tested them, one was overtopping its air intake bell, the other wasn't so it seems that one of the carbs was stuck and overflowed into the other, so it was peeing from both carbs.
I couldn't find any carb kits for the M1 but I was able to get the individual jets and valve.
Yep, I figured it out
Thanks for the reply, it seems I'm on the right track.
Ron

The seats will wear also, so when you lap them in you are fitting them together.
Kinda a last resort though.

I can't find carb kits for the 80 KZ750G either

Steve and Ron,I know that the years are different with Your Guys's bikes,from these kits,but do You think maybe they'd work?
Maybe He has more of them??

Carb Kits

Post edited by: Sandy, at: 2006/10/05 00:14

Post edited by: Sandy, at: 2006/10/05 00:17

After having one of the best weeks, weather wise, this afternoon our temps dropped 15 degrees, got cloudy and the weather report doesn't look good for awhile . This afternoon, just before it started to rain I got her running . While putting the carbs back together I noticed that one of the float pivot pins was slighly bent and thought this might have been the problem w/the float sticking. I though this until I reinstalled the carbs. While putting the carbs back in the bike I couldn't get the fuel line over the petcock outlet, it was too small. This I didn't understand because yesterday it fit fine. I had a horrible thought:sick:and tried to put the fuel line on the petcock vacume port...it fit. I think that I may have mixed the lines on the petcock, yesterday, and was feeding fuel through the vacume:blush:. Got the lines hooked up properly and ...BANG I've got a running bike:). Ran her up and down the road that I was bogging down on, the other day. She's still a little choppy between 2 and 4K rpm but the more I drove her the better she got. I think I've finally got this thing beat . Too bad the weather now SUX but I'm happy, anyway. Still have a few bugs to work out but I now believe that I'll have a street worthy bike very shortly...just in time for winter:pinch:
Thanks for all your help
Ron

Sandy wrote:

Steve and Ron,I know that the years are different with Your Guys's bikes,from these kits,but do You think maybe they'd work?
Maybe He has more of them??

Carb Kits

Post edited by: Sandy, at: 2006/10/05 00:14<br><br>Post edited by: Sandy, at: 2006/10/05 00:17

Thanks for the thought, Sandy, but my shop manuel says that the 1979 KZ750 B4 uses a Mikuni BS-38 and mine uses a BS-34. It looks like Steell could use them in his B4.
Ron

Steve and Ron,I know that the years are different with Your Guys's bikes,from these kits,but do You think maybe they'd work?
Maybe He has more of them??
Carb Kits

Are these the same/similar kits z1 sells for about $20?

76-79 carb kits are readily available, 80 isn't, even though the 80 also uses a BS38.
I tried using a 76-79 kit in an 80, but never could get it to run right. I took the same parts of the kit out of the 80 carbs and put them in 79 carbs and the bike finally ran great.