TOPIC:

Need advice on how to do this. 79 kz1000 ltd, Axcel coils. Apparently the air screw adjustment is suppose to be 1 1/2 according to be manual. How would I go about doing this. Do I go counter-clockwise until it stops, then do a 1 1/2 turn clockwise? Or the other way around?

sakiguy wrote:

Need advice on how to do this. 79 kz1000 ltd, Axcel coils. Apparently the air screw adjustment is suppose to be 1 1/2 according to be manual. How would I go about doing this. Do I go counter-clockwise until it stops, then do a 1 1/2 turn clockwise? Or the other way around?

Opposite.
Clockwise til it stops then 1-1/2 counter-clockwise.
That way you have turned it 1-1/2 out.

Hopefully this solves my issues but if you haven't changed anything to your bike, these probably shouldn't need adjusting correct...or do they after a certain period of time?

The way I see it the air screw is for Idle mixture ajustment, and as your engine compustion changers through wear and tear, altertude etc the idle mixture may need adjusting

I'll run an engine at normal operating temp on idle at say 1200rpm,then turn the screw in to stop then out the spec amount, then go in or out 1/8 turns. Choose which position that the engine runs higher rpm

eazyer on a twin then a 4 potter

What kind of problem are you having? If you have not changed anything on your bike and it all of a sudden started acting funnny it may not be the air screws.

I had a problem where my KZ900 all of a sudden started running sluggish. I checked everything and was about to adjust my air mixture screws but i wanted to check to see if there was trash in the carb bowls. I drained the bowls and i got fine pieces of trash and a couple beads of water out of the bowls. Took it for a test ride and Problem Solved, no need to adjust the air mixture screws.

tw

The problems I've been having is that my Kaw is really sluggish and stutters when I open the throttle.

I think I have a combination of problems, both electrical and carb related.

First off I discovered that the big connector on my reg/rectifier disconnected I guess through vibration. That will probably solve my charging issue. But even when I charged the battery up over night and run it the next day, it would stutter when opening the throttle. Would the reg/rectifier cause these kind of symptoms with a fully charged battery? Hopefully it will run find now that the rectifier is connected.

Maybe your accelerator pump circuit is clogged or the diaphragm is bad. Have you checked it? These bikes are set up with a lean mixture for emissions. The accelerator pump adds extra fuel when the throttle is opened rapidly to make sure it doesn't go too lean (it takes a second for the regular fuel passages to catch up) and cause a misfire. I had to replace the diaphragm on mine. Also, there are check valves in the system that you will have to make sure are clean.

I took the bike out today after a fresh charge of the battery and the old rectifier connected. The bike ran fine. After checking the voltages at idle however, the bike read below 13.5 volts...around 12.9 and then steadily declined at idle. I put a new rectifier in from z1enterprises and now it seems to be holding a charge and I'm getting a steady of about 13.5 volts at idle. I suppose the rectifier was definitely the problem. I'm just glad it wasn't the alternator. I suppose it wasn't the carbs after all. I did put in 4 oz. of seafoam in a full gas tank just for good measure though.