TOPIC:

wrote:

One thing I haven't seen mentioned here yet, I have always found with these type of fixings using a flat ended drift or old socket extension give the head of the screw a good smack square on. This often release some of the tension on the threads and helps getting it out
PS: when I say a good smack common sense should prevail 

 

Same, but I like to use a center punch when dealing with Philips/JIS screws - get it right in the middle of the X.

All good ideas, and if none work you can use vise grips on the head of the bolt, and if all else fails, an angle grinder to take the head off, then with the boot gone and better access, you should be able to get enough purchase on the remaining bolt to remove it.

Unless you're going for originality, consider switching to allen head bolts which don't strip easily. After 40+ years of use with a lot of people incorrectly using phillips-head screwdrivers on these JIS bolts, it's really common for these to be stripped. There are plenty of stores online selling stainless allen head bolt kits which are much better.

Vampliers.  Specialty screw extractor pliers.  Sold individually or as a set.  Also produced by the 'Engineer' brand.  Anyone who appreciates quality tools exhibiting fine fit & finish will be happy with either.

www.amazon.com/Professional-Internationa...s%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-8

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

wrote:

Vampliers.  Specialty screw extractor pliers.  Sold individually or as a set.  Also produced by the 'Engineer' brand.  Anyone who appreciates quality tools exhibiting fine fit & finish will be happy with either.

www.amazon.com/Professional-Internationa...s%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-8

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Completely agree however, the above measures suggested are aimed at relieving the hold the head has on the bolt, without doing this first getting a better grip on the bolt will simply increase the risk of breaking it off in situ. A lot of extraction tools are great for bolts that have been broken through overtightening and therefore aren't seized in (IMHO)

sorry not meaning to hijack this thread but how often should one change his intake boots? ty

wrote:

sorry not meaning to hijack this thread but how often should one change his intake boots? ty

Depends on storage conditions.  Every 25 years or so, if using OEM boots, sounds about right.

Vessel Impacta JIS screwdrivers are great. The impact driver is built into the screwdriver's handle.

wrote:

sorry not meaning to hijack this thread but how often should one change his intake boots? ty

Depends on how the bike was stored, maintained, etc.  Mine are original, still good, soft with no cracks.

wrote:

Vessel Impacta JIS screwdrivers are great. The impact driver is built into the screwdriver's handle.
 

I have a set of those. They are quite nice, but I have never felt comfortable trying to use the impact function. The idea of hitting a screwdriver with a hammer makes me cringe, even if it's designed to be hit, so I switch to the purpose-built impact driver.

Well you should try it out sometime. They work great and can get in where the fat impact driver won't. They still work after two years of constant use.

I use an Impacta, as needed, when rebuilding carburetors.  For engine covers and carb boots, I think a real impact driver is more appropriate.  

Nessism post=872175I use an Impacta, as needed, when rebuilding carburetors.  For engine covers and carb boots, I think a real impact driver is more appropriate.  

Didn't know those existed.  Another very useful fix for us tool junkies!

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE