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All I want to do is ride... and not repair right now. 14 Sep 2020 19:35 #835053

  • KZJOE900
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Well, with the DGR right around the corner, I still haven't figured out the cause of my #2 cylinder dropping out. So I didn't feel like diagnosing the coil etc. So I checked it the lazy man's way.



I feel pretty confident the issue is fuel related. Unless is is some kind timing issue. But if it was, #3 cylinder would have an issue as well. So tomorrow I will try spraying starting fluid into carburetor # 2 while the bike is idling. Want to see if idle will increase. Not sure if this will work, but if the rpm's go up, it will further confirm that it is a carburetor issue. I hate the idea of having to take the rack apart for repairs. All I want to do is ride these days. Don't have the time and patience to do repairs anymore. Well, fingers crossed.
Current project 76 KZ900 (This was a Vetter model)
76 KZ900
81 XJ550H SECA (Current Project)
82 XJ550R SECA
Past:
86 FJ1200
74 Z1900
72 CB450

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Last edit: by KZJOE900.

All I want to do is ride... and not repair right now. 15 Sep 2020 00:52 #835061

  • weebeasty
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hi

sounds familiar to me... have you tried new plugs ? they can run fine when in idle but can fail when under load even though they work at idle.
another cause can be the valve clearance to tight. will run fine when cold and maybe idle but when it gets warm it can cause the valve to be ever so slightly open and that will cause misfire or complete drop out.
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All I want to do is ride... and not repair right now. 15 Sep 2020 04:22 #835064

  • KZJOE900
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weebeasty wrote: hi

sounds familiar to me... have you tried new plugs ? they can run fine when in idle but can fail when under load even though they work at idle.
another cause can be the valve clearance to tight. will run fine when cold and maybe idle but when it gets warm it can cause the valve to be ever so slightly open and that will cause misfire or complete drop out.


Thanks WeeBeasty, I have already eliminated the plug by swapping with a plug from another working cylinder. I agree, I should check the valve clearance next. Free time is my problem right now. I do suspect the clearance is okay since I really don't put on a lot of miles. But they do need to be checked and I would rather do that first than taking apart the carburetor rack. Will post my solution here once I resolve this. Thanks again.
Current project 76 KZ900 (This was a Vetter model)
76 KZ900
81 XJ550H SECA (Current Project)
82 XJ550R SECA
Past:
86 FJ1200
74 Z1900
72 CB450

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All I want to do is ride... and not repair right now. 15 Sep 2020 10:07 #835094

  • F64
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If you had one of these you may be able to use it to view the carburetor throat to see if fuel is pulling out of the needle jet.

wireless endoscope

I've used my phone for this as well.
81-KZ440-D2. Louis Dudzik's GM HEI ignition module converted 2015--no issues, Motogadget m-unit blue.

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All I want to do is ride... and not repair right now. 15 Sep 2020 10:10 #835095

  • Saablord
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Compression test?

I like the starter fluid idea. Play with the air/fuel screw as well

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Last edit: by Saablord.

All I want to do is ride... and not repair right now. 30 Nov 2020 05:19 #839218

  • TexasKZ
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Any news?
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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All I want to do is ride... and not repair right now. 30 Nov 2020 08:10 #839228

  • mopguy
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I had the same problem on my KZ750, it ended up being a dirty carburetor. I cleaned it, problem solved.
I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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