TOPIC:

TexasKZ wrote: Here is the diagram for the 1979-80 KZ1000 A3
www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...y-u-s-a-79-80-a3-a3a


You can see bowl vent tubes from the bottom of each bowl, three vacuum hoses ( one for the petcock, two for the PAIR). I forgot that the synchronizing ports were on the manifolds.

Soo, if see are what you have, all four synchronizing ports, and the three vacuum ports should be capped. I am assuming that the PAIRsystem has been removed.
Bowl vents should be ope, whether they have hoses or not.

Ok so there not missed matched, that’s what I have as of now the petcock port and the pair ports are capped and the manifold ports are capped and the bowl vents are not capped I know they are open because I’ve had gas run out of those before and I blew them out when I rebuilt them, so that means my problem is elsewhere .

Sorry TexasKZ has the correct diagram. Yours look to be a correct carbs. The port on number 3 is vacuum number 45 needs to be capped. The number 38 and 39 "vent" need to be open... sorry for misleading you...

Mikaw wrote: Sorry TexasKZ has the correct diagram. Yours look to be a correct carbs. The port on number 3 is vacuum number 45 needs to be capped. The number 38 and 39 "vent" need to be open... sorry for misleading you...

Man it ain’t no problem I’m learning as well

Carb 3 should be capped as this is the redundant vac port for the fuel tap.
2 and 4 MUST be open as these are float bowl vents .
In the case of mismatched or mixed up racks just check inside the venturi on the engine side of the slides.
If there is a hole in the side wall of the venturi then that is a vac carb and no hole is a breather carb..

zed1015 wrote: In the case of mismatched or mixed up racks just check inside the venturi on the engine side of the slides....If there is a hole in the side wall of the venturi then that is a vac carb and no hole is a breather carb..

Zed1015... great information... Thank You

I’m gonna try it this afternoon, when the wife gets home, I got a two year old son who don’t exactly let me work in the garage lol. I’ll let everyone know what happens. And in case i forget I really appreciate all the help from u guys I’ve been on a couple of forums in the past but none as helpful as this one again i appreciate y’all’s time in helping me.

I went back to P1 of this thread and looked at the carb photo after you cleaned them up. There is a side shot that shows the fuel/air screw, but it looks like someone at some point blocked the passage with a Phillips screw. Also, in all of the photos I haven't seen any pilot adjusters, which are usually located on the bottom front of the carbs. If you have no pilot adjusters and you also have lost the ability to adjust your fuel/air ratio then you maybe should consider scrapping those carbs unless you can somehow fix the fuel/air screw problem.

hardrockminer wrote: I went back to P1 of this thread and looked at the carb photo after you cleaned them up. There is a side shot that shows the fuel/air screw, but it looks like someone at some point blocked the passage with a Phillips screw. Also, in all of the photos I haven't seen any pilot adjusters, which are usually located on the bottom front of the carbs. If you have no pilot adjusters and you also have lost the ability to adjust your fuel/air ratio then you maybe should consider scrapping those carbs unless you can somehow fix the fuel/air screw problem.

The air/fuel screws are on the side at a down angle, that Phillips head screw was actually a air/fuel needle but the wrong one I have since gotten 4 new needles from partzilla and they are all brass flatheads.

Screws on the side are pilot AIR mix adjusters and screws underneath are pilot FUEL mix.
On stock Kawasaki Mikunis you will never have both types but just one or the other and they essentially do the same job of adjusting the pilot air/fuel ratio.
If you have Mikunis with both air and fuel mix screws then they would be SUZUKI GS fitment .

zed1015 wrote: Screws on the side are pilot AIR mix adjusters and screws underneath are pilot FUEL mix.
On stock Kawasaki Mikunis you will never have both types but just one or the other and they essentially do the same job of adjusting the pilot air/fuel ratio.
If you have Mikunis with both air and fuel mix screws then they would be SUZUKI GS fitment .

Didn’t know that, I knew they didn’t have the bottom screw ,where it went is blank ( never tapped). Figured it was right. I’ve been looking on partzilla to figure out what carbs I had and the parts , I’ve been using the part list from 1980 Z1R-kz1000 D3.

Most of the parts are the same for any 28mm Mikunis. Z1R, MK2, ST etc.
Only difference is the pumper parts and jet sizing for any particular model..

zed1015 wrote: Most of the parts are the same for any 28mm Mikunis. Z1R, MK2, ST etc.
Only difference is the pumper parts and jet sizing for any particular model..

I got the pumpers to work, I saw on the parts list a 107.5 r main jet, it had 120s in it I’ve got 117.5 and 115 in it now is that to much or will it be ok with pods and 4 into 1 Mac with no baffling, the baffle that came in it sounded terrible to me.