TOPIC:

baldy110 wrote:
I like it. In fact I will hang this quote in my garage.

I still like the sign I saw back in the deep part of the shop at Grand Prix Kawasaki:

SHOP LABOR RATES:

Basic Rate: $60/hr

If You Watch Me Work: $150/hr

If You Worked On It First: $300/hr

bountyhunter wrote:

baldy110 wrote:
I like it. In fact I will hang this quote in my garage.

I still like the sign I saw back in the deep part of the shop at Grand Prix Kawasaki:

SHOP LABOR RATES:

Basic Rate: $60/hr

If You Watch Me Work: $150/hr

If You Worked On It First: $300/hr

thank you, that is funny

Hi. I have this very same bike with thew very same problem.I put pods on and fabbed a 4-2-1 header. It is very lean during the mid and was lean on the top, but not as bad. Ran a 125 mainjet and she's too fat. Going back to a 120 main and going to run a different needle. I turned my needles down by hand and it got significantly better, but I screwed the off-idle up. I am convinced that I am on the right track with a needle swap. Going to run a 5FL14. I will post the results.

Does it idle smooth and steady? Are all plugs th same color now? You never said how It runs at idle now, was just wondering if you have a plug cap that is bad.

Patton wrote: For carb tuning considerations, if not already aware ---

Main jet size has no effect on air/fuel mixture until after 3/4 throttle, and has most effect at wot where the jet needle is high enough in the needle jet to allow all mixture available from the main jet to pass through the needle jet.

Jet needle taper and position in the needle jet (plus slide cutaway) governs air/fuel mixture from 1/4~3/4 throttle.

The pilot jet governs air fuel mixture from idle~1/4 throttle.
Up to 1/4 throttle position on large Kaw fours produces a surprisingly brisk road speed.

There is a progressive transition as the jet needle takes over from the pilot jet, and another progressive transition when the jet needle thereafter surrenders to the main jet (as the main jet supplies the needle jet absent limitation by the tapered jet needle).

Pods are typically more difficult to tune (than the stock air box) over the entire range of carb operation.

Good Fortune!

Thanks, very interesting about transition from needle to main.

i have ?
kz550 b2 .tk22
i tace out jet needle ( just 1 to look ) its ok o i need to pot Needle Retaining E Clip lower ??

Never mind, old thread.

To Zirafin, probably best to keep posts for your bike on your main discussion thread, until the problems are solved. It's easier to help that way.

My mechanic suggested me to buy a 140 jet because I recently bought air pods and my exhaust system is a 4 to 1. My motorcycle is a KZ 750 ltd 1982. Is 140 jet a good decision or nah?

140 is way too big I would not go over 120\125 max. Pods are extremely hard to tune. Good luck. If you want better performance go with bigger carbs

spudbudy wrote: 140 is way too big I would not go over 120\125 max. Pods are extremely hard to tune. Good luck. If you want better performance go with bigger carbs

What do you mean by bigger carbs? Is there a modification I dont know about lol? What if I want the less problem possible

If you really want the fewest problems, put the factory intake system (air box, filter, and all) back on. If you have a 750 twin with BS34 carbs, they are notoriously difficult to tune for individual filters, and you will likely loose a little performance along the way.
Unless you are going to add high compression pistons, ported head, high performance cams and bigger carbs, there really is no point in individual filters. The stock setup flows as much as the stock engine needs.

Actually I have a kz 750 ltd 1982, heihin carburetors. But Im so fucking confused because of leaking fuel to the airbox. And when I open the carburetor the float valves mooves freely, have already cleaned EVERY part of the carburetor, the only thing I think it is, is a dirty diaphram inside the petcock because of a dirty gas tank.